Checking out Grimaldi's Pizzeria in West Village
Like Ben, an Eats blogger who commented on the previous post, we went to try out Grimaldi's in West Village last night. I can't compare it to the mother ship, never having made it to Patsy Grimaldi's in B'klyn, but the overall first impression was a good one.
This is definitely New York-style pizza -- very different from the Italian-style pies down the street at Campania. We ordered a large (18-inch) pizza with Grimaldi's basic fresh-tomato sauce for $15, and added Italian sausage, mushrooms and extra homemade mozz for $2 each.
The crust was nice, thin and crisp; the mozzarella was generously distributed, and the Italian sausage tasted the way it should. Lots of intense, distinct flavors in this pizza. Besides the red-sauce pie, you can also get a white or a pesto pizza, all in personal (12-inch) or small (16-inch) sizes, as well as the 18" large. Those are also the three sizes of calzones available.
(Grimaldi's Dallas interior, minus a few decorative finishing touches
that are now in place. Photo courtesy of Patsy Grimaldi's.)
Starters include antipasto in two sizes, a Caprese salad, a Caesar salad, a Mediterranean salad (more Greek than Italian, with kalamata olives and feta cheese) and the house salad with vinaigrette. (For a couple more dollars, you can also add matchsticks of Genoa salami and fresh mozz to your salad.) Most of the salads are offered in two sizes, so we each got a small house salad ($5). The waiter warned us they would be substantial. He was right: We could have shared one quite easily.
Don't expect to see anything as fancy as arugula on the toppings list. But you will see homey extras such as Parma ham, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh sliced tomatoes, meatballs, anchovies, pepperoni, kalamata olives, fresh garlic, onions, extra basil or mozzarella, etc., all for $2 each. The only topping that cost more ($4) was oven-roasted sweet red peppers, which also came on the house salad, and which I liked.
There was a nice, affordably priced wine list (I really liked my glass of California cab) and a selection of beers on tap, as well as specialty cocktails. Iced tea, still or sparkling water, soft drinks, hot teas and coffees were available. The only cheesecake offered last night was the Oreo one, so we skipped that and had the cannoli -- although, filled with ricotta and mini chocolate chips, it proved a bit too dense for our tastes. Maybe we should have had the tiramisu? (That was what our waiter was recommending.)
The place is attractively designed, with wood panels, corrugated-tin ceiling tiles, stained-concrete floors, classic lounge music, subway signs and vintage photographs to maintain the New York aura. I also liked the wine bottles made into pendant lights around the bar area.
Service was friendly and knowledgeable, and we were served quickly but never felt rushed. The place was only about half full of patrons on this, its first night open to the public (Tuesday night was a private opening event for the staff's families and friends). But it was fully staffed, and the restaurant seems ready to handle a full house as soon as the crowds appear. If you like New York-style pizza, or if you're already a Grimaldi's devotee, head on down.
By the way, the pizzeria's address is 3636 McKinney Ave. -- but that's just the building's block address. Grimaldi's entrance is actually around the corner, at Cityplace West and Noble Avenue, just across from the Hank Haney Golf Ranch.
Grimaldi's is currently open daily for dinner. Call 214-559-4611 for more information.
Comments
So, Joyce:
You'd put this place in the "Old School" category?
Or do you consider it more in the new wave of Artisanal, like Nonna's, Campania and Olivella?
inquiring minds want to know...
Posted by: Helena Basquet | December 19, 2007 4:47 PM
Helena, I think Grimaldi's is firmly in the New York tradition of pizza, which I guess by definition is "old school." That's the homestyle stuff I think of as growing out of the Little Italy immigrant experience. (It's what Tony Soprano would eat.) And it's the only kind of pizza some people will bother to make a culinary pilgrimage for.
I've not yet been to Nonna (and I really really want to go!). But Grimaldi's pizza is not like what I've had at Olivella or Campania. Sure, they all have thin crispy crust and fresh ingredients, but they're put together in entirely different ways.
Such "artisanal" pizza is very much like the pies I've eaten in Italy, and I must admit to being pretty hooked on Campania's in particular.
Some people will dig "old school" pizza and some will crave "new wave." Some will even like both styles, depending on what mood they are in. It all just depends on what makes your taste buds happy.
Posted by: Joyce Saenz Harris | December 19, 2007 5:12 PM
Ate there this week. Nice interior design, excellent pizza, and inexpensive wine list. This place was more casual than I expected given its trendy location.
The house salad was pretty lifeless (the "insalata basica" at Campania is far better), but the pizza made up for it. Thin coal-fired crust, a liberal amount of mild red sauce, and quality toppings.
But the oddest thing about our experience was the service. Our server was so eager to please that she wouldn't leave us alone. She sort of hovered around the table, interrupted us frequently, and seriously put us on edge. Even after wine and pizza, I left feeling stressed out and uncomfortable.
Let's hope the wait staff works out their opening week jitters. Grimaldi's cannot beat Fireside Pies or Campania, but they make a good pie and I will probably return.
Posted by: Ryan | December 20, 2007 4:55 PM
Thanks, Ryan. Your last paragraph saved us a trip.
BTW, was your server named 'Yummy' perhaps?
Posted by: Bill Kennedy | December 21, 2007 10:40 AM