OLD Eats DO NOT USE

From noon to 3 p.m. on Sundays, you can take your aching head to Kitchen 1924 in Lakewood and get a fix for what ails you.

According to its publicist:

Owner Shawn Horne wants to help Dallasites nurse their hangovers with the restaurant’s famed Bloody Mary bar and $10 all you can eat buffet, unless, as Shawn says, “you eat like a killer whale…then no buffet for you!” Guests will receive a free pair of sunglasses to provide shade from the glaring daylight and table centerpieces made with Excedrin, Tums and Pepto Bismol.

The menu includes:

Bacon Corn Bread
Beef Cheek Hash
Farmers Market Quiche
Farmers Market Omelet
Fricken’ (Fried Chicken)
Gouda Scrambled Eggs
Kitchen 1924 Homemade Sausage
Tenderloin Sloppy Joes
Tilapia with Curry Mashers

Kitchen 1924 is located at 1924 Abrams Rd. in the Lakewood Shopping Center. Call 214-821-1924 for more information.

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Jason Maddy, an Austinite who worked with David Bull at the Driskill Hotel there, has joined the Mansion Restaurant at the Mansion on Turtle Creek as its chef de cuisine. We wondered who would take this position a few weeks back when it was announced that Timothy Byrnes would leave the Mansion to become Stephan Pyle’s executive chef. The press release mentions that before the Driskill, Maddy worked with David Bouley in New York. A great chef, Bouley.

Maddy also appeared with David Bull on Iron Chef in 2006. And speaking of David Bull, there’s a link to his dinner menu (or part of it, anyway) for the new Bolla opening soon in the renovated Stoneleigh Hotel. Scroll down to the second page and check it out. Mmm, crudo ...

Photo of Jason Maddy (right) and David Bull courtesy of the Austin American-Statesman. Photo by Matt Rourke.

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15th Street Cafe in downtown Plano closed earlier this month when the owners decided to do catering only, but restaurant is open again with new owners. The new menu includes American basics like sandwiches and burgers, plus pasta and tacos. Lunch and dinner are served on weekdays. Brunch is available Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Downtown Plano has another new-old restaurant. Go-Gorditas on Avenue K next to La Paloma has reopened as Burri-To-Go. The new place offers burritos and wraps.

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Those price-rollback specials that restaurants use to mark their anniversaries are especially attractive when it's a place where you know the food is good. Who doesn't love to save money on a sure thing?

Moreover, when it's a place that's been around as long as the home-cooking heaven Celebration has, those old-timey prices are real bargains in 2008 dollars.

Celebration's anniversary email indicates that this Sunday, March 2, "We would like to offer our meatloaf and roasted rosemary chicken for the retro price of $5.95." (Normally these dishes are $10.95 and $10.50 at dinner, $9.25 each at lunch.)

Celebration is at 4503 W. Lovers Lane in Dallas. Call 214-351-5681 for more information.

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Shish, the upscale Turkish restaurant from the same people who own the fast-food Turkish place called Selim's Doner House.

The other new reviews are of Cafe R+D, a University Park casual eatery from the company that runs nearby Houston's, and Pho Delavie, a Vietnamese spot in Plano Dallas that serves pho, of course, plus Saigon crepes and other favorites.

Share your own review of these restaurants. Leave a comment below.

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Wow, has Dean Fearing been having a good week, or what?

First, Fearing's got a "best new restaurant" long-list nom from the James Beard Foundation. Then it made Texas Monthly's top 10 new restaurants. And then, the New York Times' Frank Bruni put Fearing's on his national top-10 list list of new must-try places.

Now it's Julia Reed, calling Dean "A Chicken-Fried Gourmet" on most of a full page in the March 3 issue of Newsweek. Not only does the contributing editor loooove the chef's mashed potatoes, she also likes the Barbwires CD he cut with chef-buddy Robert Del Grande, Bliss and Blisters, which she calls "surprisingly good."

Atmosphere is the other big plus, Ms. Reed says, quoting Dean:

"What we all love about restaurants is walking in and knowing you've arrived," he says. "You want people in those seats laughing, waiters hurrying past. You want that addictive feeling of being at the right spot." And whenever I'm there, I do.

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Chef Blythe Beck reports that she and Hector Garcia, owner of Hector's on Henderson, are in partnership with Warner Bros. on her Naughty Kitchen TV show. A crew will be in town shooting the whole month of April. Lucky Blythe: They'll follow her everywhere -- home, work, play. (Shameless plug: They actually arrive in time to shoot the Taste wine panel on March 31.) Warner Bros. will then pitch the show to networks.
In other news, Hector will will be handed the Dallas Film Commission Advocacy Award from Women in Film.Dallas this weekend.

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Score another accolade for Dean Fearing and his new restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton Dallas. New York Times dining critic Frank Bruni includes the eponymous room in his top 10 new restaurants across the nation. It's the only Texas restaurant that made the cut.

Bruni explains how he visted 15, including Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc, which I wrote about a few days ago, and pared the lot down to 10. (Ad Hoc didn't make it.) He'll write about the restaurants, including Fearing's, over the next two Wednesdays.

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As our colleague Steve Blow mentions over on the Metro blog, Texas Monthly's March issue features its Top 10 new restaurants in the state.

And Dallas has four of the 10: Fearing's at No. 1, Dallas Fish Market at No. 5, Alo at No. 9 and The Porch at No. 10.

The Bishop Arts District's Kavala was one of four additional spots that won an honorable mention from TM, as was Dutch's, Grady Spears' burger place in Fort Worth.

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...but get a grip -- it's only for the evening. So don't plan to drop by between 5:30 and 8:30 tonight, because all the baristas will be getting special training sessions. And it doesn't matter how much you bang on the windows and whine and cry, dude -- they're not going to answer the door. So take your laptop and get your latte somewhere else.

As the news story also tells us:

By summer, budget-conscious coffee lovers will be able to pick up less expensive espresso and capuccino at McDonald's, which is rolling out an ambitious coffeehouse program at 14,000 U.S. locations. Meanwhile, Dunkin' Donuts is making a play today for Starbucks customers by offering 99-cent small espresso-based drinks from 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.

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Josephine's, the wine bar and bistro at Frisco's Shops at Starwood, has closed to relocate, says owner Chris Gangi (pictured at left). He cited construction and landlord woes as reasons for the move. Mr. Gangi says the new location will be "down the street" from the just-closed one, and he hopes to open it at the beginning of May.

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The Rosewood Crescent Hotel (formerly the Hotel Crescent Court) has announced the hiring of pastry chef Gianni Santin as the hotel's new executive chef.

Eric Perelli, who has been at the Rosewood Crescent as part of chef Santin's pastry team, will assume the post of pastry chef.

For more details, skip to the press release on the jump...

Continue reading "Rosewood Crescent hires a new executive chef" »

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Interesting news just arrived from the Dallas Museum of Art:

...It has partnered with Sodexo, Inc. as its new culinary service provider for both the Atrium Cafe and signature restaurant Seventeen Seventeen, as well as provide catering for on-site events. The award-winning foodservice company will be teaming up with Stephan Pyles, the renowned local chef, to create an exciting culinary experience in the Museum’s restaurants and catering operations. Sodexo has experience in many cultural institutions, including the Cincinnati Museum Center, the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago, and the Children’s Museum of Indianapolis, and is anticipated to be in-house at the DMA by April 1, 2008.

For more details, read the whole press release...

Continue reading "Stephan Pyles partnering with DMA foodservice" »

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In case you missed it -- it was in the Business section, after all -- check out Chris Wienandt's story about Motopia Cafe, a combination coffee shop-motorcycle shop on Central south of Fitzhugh.
To borrow a line from the story: Where else can you drop in for a caramel hazelnut latte and get your motorbike serviced? Hardly anywhere, I'm thinking.

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Metro reporter Dave Levinthal, who covered last year's doggy dining debate, issues an update.

By now, Dallas pet owners should have a roster of restaurants at which they may dine with their dogs on an outdoor patio.

The Dallas City Council, after all, last year passed a measure allowing establishments to obtain doggy dining permits so long as they abided by the city safety and health regulations.

Instead, the effort to create a more urbane atmosphere in Dallas' dining corridors is a doggone blunder. More than a year later, Dallas hasn't issued a single dog-on-patio permit, having received only six applications in the first place.

Read the rest of Dallas may loosen restrictions for dogs on restaurant patios

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That's the question being asked by our colleague Jacquielynn Floyd, over on the Metro blog.

Jack notes that the original Salt Lick, a BBQ icon in Central Texas, now has replicated itself in Austin, Las Vegas and Round Rock -- and, eventually, it'll come to Grand Prairie at Joe Pool Lake. And she wonders:

Can you replicate the ambiance of an icon? And does being a link in said chain -- even if it's the first link -- detract from the original's authenticity?

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Seems like only yesterday that former Hattie's chef Kelly Hightower transformed an old Oak Cliff Dairy Queen space into a neighborhood nosh-spot. Yes, it's amazing what floor-to-ceiling curtains, mood lighting and a bowl of Greek Island Fish Stew (top right) can do to elevate a place.

Come share the love this Sunday (Feb. 24) when chef Hightower and his wife, Elizabeth, celebrate the eatery's first birthday with complimentary bites and beverages, and live music from 3 p.m. to whenever the good stuff runs out.

Kavala, 1417 W. Davis St., 214-942-8100

Photos by Sam Granado/Special Contributor

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Yep, getting closer.

(That's it, actually. This was just a visual aid.)

Click here for interior-in-progress pics of the Fort Worth vegetarian cafe and bakery adding a second location in Oak Cliff.

Photo: Snapped from a moving car by cwynn

• Spiral Diner Dallas address and map and a review of Spiral Diner's Fort Worth location

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Scene in downtown's Mosaic building.

The other new reviews are of Medina Oven and Bar in Victory Park and old favorite Patrizio in Plano.

Do you agree with our reviews? Disagree? Leave a comment below.

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Get the secret to the legendary CFS as served at Gennie's Bishop Grill. We even got Rosemarie Hudson to come out of retirement long enough to show us how she does it.

Tell us: Where do you go for chicken fried steak? We've already heard from a contingent of readers who make the trek to Strawn, west of Fort Worth, for the CFS at Mary's Cafe. We're hoping for something a little closer to home.

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Eats friend Lesley Téllez (of Quick's nightlife blog) and I both tried to visit Cosmic Cafe this weekend only to find it closed. I went by Friday night to find orange cones blocking off the driveway and yellow tape along the perimeter. Lesley saw the same thing yesterday. As usual when a restaurant is closed, no one is answering the phone or replying to email. But as soon as we know more, so will you.

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Business reporter Angela Shah and a host of photographers and videographers followed Villa-O, Robert Colombo's organic-inspired pasta restaurant, from gutting the Travis Avenue space that once housed Samba Room to last Monday's opening night.

Read Angela Shah's Villa-O: From conception to opening night

Watch the video The making of Villa-O restaurant

View the slideshow of photos from taking down the Samba Room sign to opening night.

• Get maps, hours and more for Villa-O

Have you tried Villa-O yet? Tell us what you think.

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Gregg Merkow, who bought Greenville Bar and Grill in 2006, reopened it as Merkow's Seafood and Steak and closed the restaurant the next year, has reopened the space under the name Greenville Bar and Grill just in time for the restaurant's 75th anniversary.

Barry Moss, who was the chef at Merkow's, is in the kitchen at Greenville Bar and Grill. The new menu is mostly American with dishes such as chicken fried steak and meatloaf, but there are Italian dishes such as spaghetti and chicken piccata and some typical bar food items such as burgers and chicken strips.

• Get hours, maps and more for Greenville Bar and Grill

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Yes, Charlie Palmer at The Joule is all the buzz, and even more so now that Drew Hendricks has earned the coveted master sommelier designation. But Charlie Palmer as bargain-wine-list destination?

The words come from wine director Hendricks' own lips. The wine list prices at Charlie Palmer are roughly the same as the standard retail prices at his New Vintage wine shop next door, plus $25 to $35. In a town where many places think nothing of marking up the wine prices 3.5 and 4 times wholesale, that's incredible.

"We're selling a lot of wine because the pricing is so generous," says Hendricks. I'll bet.

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews the Mansion Restaurant at Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek. Of a meal in the Mansion's Chef's Room, he says it's "the most exhilarating dining experience I've had thus far in Dallas." Read why. Then, see more dishes from the Mansion's new menu in A taste of the Mansion slideshow.

The other new reviews this week are revisits to two old favorites – Royal Thai and Nicola's Ristorante Italiano.

As always, don't forget to tell us what you think about the reviews.

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Yesssss! It's really happening. Official word has just arrived from the PR folks:

The Stoneleigh Hotel & Spa is gearing up for its opening debut after a $36 million, year-and-a-half face lift... I know, I know --"you've been telling us this for months, give us something we don't know!" Drum roll, please, for the actual opening date: Monday, March 3, 2008.

We hope that you are as excited as we are to welcome the grande dame of Dallas back in all of her glory...finally! Bring on the Bollatinis.

• More about Stoneleigh and Bolla

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GuideLive.com's Darla Atlas interviewed Charlie Palmer about his self-named restaurant in the Joule hotel in downtown Dallas.

Warning to other chefs: Reading about Charlie Palmer's life may result in extreme envy.

The celebrated restaurateur, who recently opened Charlie Palmer at the Joule in downtown Dallas, has mastered the often-tricky game of fine dining. His 20-year-old Manhattan institution, Aureole, is still going strong, as are his eateries sprinkled across the nation. He lives in the California wine country, where he's a vintner. And, perhaps most irksome of all to struggling chefs, he has no pressing financial woes.

"A lot of times, I think the mistake is made that you've got to open the doors and you've got to start making money, you've got to pay the bills," says Mr. Palmer, taking a break at his new Dallas spot. "We're in a unique situation where we're in good shape. We want to build a restaurant for 20 years, not two."

• Read the rest of Chef Charlie Palmer brings 'component cuisines' to Dallas

• Get maps, hours and more for Charlie Palmer restaurant

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Here's a one-day deal for you: Head out to any Sonny Bryan's on Wednesday, and you can pick up a sandwich for $2.50.

A sandwich at Sonny's is normally $4.49 (extra for ribs), or $4.39 at the original Inwood location, which has its own menu.

The Inwood location is celebrating its 50th anniversary, which is why the special one-day deal is on. The offer's good all day at all Sonny Bryan's locations.

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Those of you who have been waiting for the advent of Villa-O -- well, the wait is over as of tomorrow. Robert Colombo's new "organic pastaria" opens Tuesday with a menu engineered by concept chef Vincenzo Indelicato, who is also executive chef at The Club.

Rex Turner will serve as executive chef at Villa-O; he used to be at Isabella's and Nick & Sam's, as well as Cafe Toulouse, and the Coyote Cafe at the MGM Grand in Las Vegas. Expect organic meats and veggies, wood-fired Neapolitan pizza, classics like Caesar salad, veal Milanesa and lasagna bolognese, and seafood selections (branzino, fennel-crusted sea scallops, seafood risotto, clams oreganata). Each of the restaurant's 50 wines will be offered by the bottle, half-bottle and glass.

Villa-O will be open daily for dinner until midnight, with night-owl hours till 2 a.m. Thursday through Saturday. Lunch service begins Monday, March 3; brunch service begins Saturday, Feb. 16. Reservations are not required.

The address is 4514 Travis St., in Travis Walk, just south of Knox Street in Dallas. For information, call 214-780-1880 or see www.villaorestaurant.com.

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Chef-entrepreneur Tim Love, who owns Lonesome Dove and Duce in Fort Worth, has been thinking about opening a Dallas outlet of his popular Stockyards burger joint, Love Shack, for about a year now. It would be Tim's first venture into Dallas, which he claimed made him a bit nervous even to think about.

But we had no doubts he would do it eventually. And though it took a couple of weeks for us to get clued in (Tim! You could have called, dude!), we now know that Love Shack will open in Victory Park, with a target date of April 1st.

It'll be larger than the original and, unlike the Stockyards' Shack, all the seating won't be open-air (although Shack diners now can get their burgers served next door, in the smoky bar atmosphere of the White Elephant Saloon). Victory Park's Love Shack will have a glassed-in dining room as well as outdoor seating.

As usual for Dallas, it looks to be quite a bit more spiffy and less scruffy than the original. However, as long as Tim's scrumptious burgers and shakes don't change, and the prices don't become too Victory Park, we will be there.

UPDATE: Tim Love just called to clarify the details on the Dallas outpost of Love Shack. He says its glassed-in area will contain the kitchen, storage areas and ordering counter only.

The Victory Park dining area still will be all outdoor seating and will feature live music. It'll have 1,500 square feet of covered space, though (unlike the FW original) dining will all be on one level.

But "it's still a walk-up burger shack," Tim says. "And the prices will be Fort Worth, not Dallas."

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We've been feeling Morocco lately, and not just because a good friend recently returned from Marrakech toting suitcases crammed with caftans and babouches.

Multiple trips to Victory Park's new Medina Oven & Bar are at least equally to blame. Manager and co-owner Sam Benoikken actually grew up in Medina, and when he tells us his chicken tagine and seven-vegetable couscous are just like home, our mouths are way too full to argue. Settle into a pillow-strewn banquet and savor, or, if the weather's pleasant, head outside for the patio's perfect view of Victory fountain.

Medina Oven & Bar, 2304 Victory Park Lane, 214-979-0003, medinadallas.com

Tracy Achor Hayes

Photos by Carter Rose/special contributor

• Get maps, hours and more for Medina from GuideLive.com

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Nonna, the Italian spot in Highland Park across from Whole Foods, and Gregory's Restaurant, a BYOB French place in Downtown Plano.

The other new review is of S&D Oyster Co., which critic Kim Pierce calls an overlooked restaurant that "long ago got it right and are still quietly working their groove."

Do you agree with our reviews? Disagree? Leave a comment below.

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Bit of a chain reaction rumbling through a few of the more ambitious kitchens in town.

The Warwick-Melrose has, at long last, hired a new executive chef for its Landmark restaurant: It’s Jeff Moschetti, who will be leaving the executive chef post at Stephan Pyles to take the gig. The W-M’s food and beverage director Edward Searle says that Moschetti will start this month (after Valentine’s Day) and that diners can expect Moschetti’s new menu to debut in April, maybe earlier.

We previously reported that the W-M’s new owners were considering toning down the fine dining aspects at the hotel’s restaurant. With Moschetti at the helm, Searle says that idea has been scrapped: It’s staying fancy, with a cosmetic lift scheduled for sometime in late summer.

So, who’s filling Moschetti’s shoes at Stephan Pyles? That would be Timothy Byres, currently the chef de cuisine at the Mansion Restaurant. According to PR maven Barbara Buzzell, “Stephan has shared with me that he has always admired Tim’s work and loved what he had accomplished at [now-closed] Standard. Stephan has been thinking about how to collaborate with Tim and this opportunity opened up.” Byres will start by the end of February.

So, who’s filling Byres’ shoes at the Mansion ? No word yet. We’ll keep you posted.

Photo above: Timothy Byres during his Standard days.

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Chatted today with Jeffrey Trigger (left), founder of the Austin-based La Corsha Hospitality Group LLC and the man in charge of renovating and restoring the historic Stoneleigh Hotel.

Bolla Modern Italian, the Stoneleigh's signature restaurant, is rocking right along toward its opening. The kitchen's operational, the main dining room is essentially furnished and lighted (though details remain), the kitchen and service staffs are being trained. Executive chef David Bull (right) is tweaking his menus, which Jeff says will be extensively taste-tested on hotel employees well before Bolla's grand opening.

Chef Bull is living in Dallas virtually full time just now, and he will continue to do so for some months while Bolla settles into a routine. But he will not be moving here permanently. Like Jeff, he has a wife and family in Austin, and the capital will continue to be their home base. The two men, who are partners in La Corsha, do a lot of commuting since they often have major projects going in different cities.

Jeff tells us that he'd like to have the hotel and Bolla open more or less simultaneously within the next four weeks. A lot depends on when a large expected shipment of lobby furniture actually arrives from California. The date he's planning for is Feb. 29, but, the pragmatic Jeff allows, "My gut is saying it'll be early March."

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First up, we've heard straight from the boss -- restaurateur Robert Colombo himself -- that his much-anticipated pasteria, Villa-O, will open very soon, maybe even later this week. Villa-O's been taking shape just south of Knox Street, in Travis Walk (the former Samba Room space). Expect it to have the same kind of cool-but-casual vibe as Mr. Colombo's other places, Trece and The Club -- except that Sunday will be "family night," with even more affordable three-course meals available. Stay tuned...

Meanwhile, our pal Teresa Gubbins over at PegasusNews.com tips us off to a couple of new places we're curious to try. First is Creperie du Chateau, which (as you might guess) specializes in crepes both sweet and savory. It's on McKinney Avenue at Fairmount, and I suspect it will make us all forget about The Magic Pan. (What, you forgot it already?)

Then there is Brix Pizza & Wine Bar on South Hulen Street in Fort Worth, which is the latest venture from chef Daniele Puleo, owner of Daniele Osteria in Oak Lawn. Charlie Cangelosi, a fellow Palermo native, is the pizzaiolo in charge of the wood-fired oven, and he's producing what Daniele says is real Italian-style pizza.

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The new Campania Pizza has opened in Southlake Town Square at 291 Grand Ave. It's been in the works for a while and seems to have had the usual opening-a-restaurant delays. But here's a new one: Campania's Jay Jerrier says "Today was the first day I was happy with the pizza!!"

The Southlake location is open 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. And in addition to the Campania standard of a wood-burning oven, this new one has three floors, including a rooftop patio and wine and coffee bars.

• Get more info about Campania Pizza Southlake

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Three of us Eatsians got a preview peek at the new Stoneleigh Hotel and its Bolla Modern Italian restaurant today. The occasion was a media luncheon for the 2008 Texas Hill Country Wine & Food Festival, which will happen the second weekend of April.

Bolla is supposed to open in about a month, we heard, though the hotel itself won't be welcoming guests until at least March. There's still a lot of work to be done, inside and out, but we can report that the Stoneleigh is coming along nicely. The sleek, elegant interiors and eye-catching lighting all complement the hotel's well-preserved historic architecture. Later, there will be a new luxury spa opening on the lower level, too.

Bolla is situated in what used to be the old Lion's Den, which is now light-filled, contemporary and pretty much unrecognizable after its makeover. The luncheon crowd was treated to a four-course meal, with wines provided by Fall Creek Vineyards; Winn Meat Co. and Central Market also were sponsors.

Architectural rendering of the Bolla dining room, courtesy of the Stoneleigh Hotel

Continue reading "Previewing Bolla and the new Stoneleigh" »

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The annual Mobil Travel Guide ratings came out this week and there were few surprises.

Dallas' slate of four-star restaurants stayed pretty much the same: Abacus, the French Room (at the Adolphus Hotel), Nana (at the HIlton Anatole) and Stephan Pyles.

One notable absence is the Mansion Restaurant, which was demoted from five stars to four in 2002 and had remained there for the last six years.

The restaurant will go unrated this year because the restaurant and Chef’s Room were under renovation during the rating period, said Erika Gonzalez, a Mansion spokeswoman.

She said the restaurant expected to be rated for 2009.

The big surprise was that Mobil granted five stars to the three-year-old Inn at Dos Brisas in Brenham, 40 miles from College Station.

It was the restaurant’s debut on the Mobil list and one of only 17 in the U.S. and Canada to earn that five-star rating.

The only other Lone Star State restaurants to return on the 4-star list were Quattro in Houston and La Reve in San Antonio.

The Cafe at the Four Seasons in Austin, which earned four stars last year, was not included in the 2008 list.

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews BLT Steak, chef Laurent Tourondel's steakhouse with a bistro twist, and Aurora, Avner Samuel’s French restaurant on Oak Lawn Avenue.

The other new review is of Plano favorite Jasmine Thai Cuisine.

Do you agree with our reviews? Disagree? Leave a comment below.

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For years, Parigi on Oak Lawn Avenue has been a chic spot for French- and Italian-inspired New American fare. Now you can add Spain to the restaurant’s culinary influences. Chef Mariano Fernandez, a native of Valencia, Spain, has left Café Madrid to join Parigi’s kitchen.
Chef-owner Janice Provost sees the addition as a natural complement to the restaurant leanings. “Spanish, French and Italian have a common Mediterranean thread, and Mariano will bring his Valencian flair to the restaurant."
Besides Spanish-influenced additions to the menu, look for a giant paella party on the restaurant’s chi-chi patio this March.
Tina Danze

Photo of chef Mariano Fernandez by Randy Eli Grothe

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I spent most of last week kicking back in Santa Fe. The fact that it was 24 degrees one morning was not enough to keep me from ordering an espresso milkshake at foodie haunt Cafe Pasqual's.
It was amazing -- dense and almost gritty with ground coffee beans. Even with my husband's help, I had to admit defeat, just before the manager stopped by to boast that it was made with housemade ice cream -- five scoops of housemade ice cream. Surely these were tiny scoops?
We were meeting friends for lunch in three hours, so I launched into an aerobic shopping spree.
Lunch was at The Shed, another Santa Fe institution. I followed the herd and ordered the No. 5 -- two blue-corn enchiladas with red chile, pinto beans and posole. Alas, I probably needed a couple more hours of power shopping to fully appreciate the meal.
The cool thing here, of course, is that both spots have been dubbed "America's Classics" by the James Beard Foundation -- and they're about 5 minutes apart, making the Santa Fe plaza a target-rich environment for award-loving foodies.

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Love the eats at Asian Mint? Chef-owner Nikky Phinyawatana shared the recipe for the restaurant's Thai Red Curry Shrimp in a recent cooking class at Milestone Culinary Arts Center.

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Our DMN colleague Leona Allen, aka "Boss Lady" to the Metro staff, brings some sad news about one of my husband's favorite downtown lunch spots:

Had my mouth all fixed for some Baby Back Shack ribs, and the place is closed. They just had a fire. Said they'd be closed for about a week. Folks keep going to the door only to be turned around looking pitiful.

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Just got word that Michael Costa and his Rainmaker Restaurant Group have opened a new venture in Rowlett. Maya Mexican Kitchen & Tequila Bar is located at 3801 Lakeview Parkway and is open daily for lunch and dinner.

Kent Lemmons is the executive chef, overseeing a menu that focuses on regional Mexican offerings. The restaurant has a guacamole and salsa bar with daily specials, and the full beverage bar boasts an array of margaritas, made to order with fresh-squeezed lime juice.

Call 469-326-1390 for reservations and information.

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Bistro Nous, but he didn't get to try its popular "Ask James" menu option because it wasn't on the January menu (but he was assured it will return by popular demand).

The other new reviews are Biscuits Cafe and Zenna, the late-night Thai-Japanese place in the former space of Bangkok City Plano.

Do you agree with our reviews? Disagree? Leave a comment below.

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Bongo-playing chef Brandt Evans (right) is bringing the fourth outlet of his Blue Canyon restaurant to The Harbor development in Rockwall. It promises to be an upscale venue with a luxe-lodge atmosphere and views of Lake Ray Hubbard.

Chef Evans, a CIA graduate, got his start as Charlie Palmer's sous chef at Alva in Manhattan. His "Creative American Cooking" menus feature what chef Evans calls "heartwarming comfort food with a tantalizing twist," such as braised beef short ribs with smoked Gouda soft polenta, lobster nachos, crab-crusted black grouper, and yellowfin tuna tacos. The restaurant also will present a selection of private-label wines.

Blue Canyon Kitchen, Tavern & Wine Bar opens to the public for dinner next Tuesday, Jan. 29, 5 to 10 p.m. The restaurant is located at 2101 Summer Lee Drive in Rockwall, adjacent to the new Hilton Bella Harbor resort hotel. Call 214- 771-3512 for reservations.

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We've been missing the glow of the historic 1938 Stoneleigh Hotel sign since it was removed last year for the building's high-style renovation.

As you can see from these dramatic photos, it's back. The sign was lifted up in six pieces and reinstalled to its former glory on the roof. Look for the lighting of the neon when the revamped Stoneleigh debuts in Feb.

Of course, what I'm really looking forward to here is the hotel's new eatery Bolla from Austin-based, James Beard Award-nominee David Bull.

Hmm, Fearing at The Ritz, Tesar at the Mansion, Palmer at the Joule, Fleming at Palomar, ... now Bull at the Stoneleigh. If only you could get a good bite and a place to stay in this town.

Photos by Jake Dean.

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What in the heck are these and why should you try one?

Photo by Eric Blackman

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Over on the Texas Pages books blog, a reader is looking for a good place to hold a book club meeting -- "somewhere relatively quiet where we can get a bite to eat, and maybe a drink or two." Any suggestions?

Posted by Cathy Barber at 2:38 PM | Permalink | Comments (6) | TrackBacks (0)

If you like hip Italian food, and you also like Polyphonic Spree, you are in serious luck next week.

Urbano Paninoteca is hosting a Bach N Rock N Roll Wine Dinner on Tuesday, Jan. 22. Chef Kevin Ascolese is in charge of the three-course dinner, which is $35 per person including wine pairings. Reservations are required; call 214-969-6911.

Live music will feature electric chamber works from the Chameleon Chamber Group, whose members are Buffi Jacobs (Polyphonic Spree, Robert Gomez Band) on electric cello; Audrey Easley (Polyphonic Spree) on flute/EWI, aka Electronic Wind Instrument; Tamara Cauble (Polyphonic Spree, Telegraph Canyon) on violin; and Paul Slavens (Ten Hands, KERA’s “90.1 at Night”) on keyboards.

DJ CeePee will also play new releases from Black Mountain, Bodies of Water, Cat Power, Dengue Fever, and Super Furry Animals. Urbano is located at 2533 McKinney Ave. (at Routh Street) in Uptown.

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We love getting reader feedback to our reviews here at Eats blog – no matter if you agree, disagree or just have something snarky to say. But we've now received several reports that many of the responses to the review of Parlour Cafe and Wine Bar likely came from people who received an email blast from Parlour asking them to come here and leave comments. So, to save our servers from being overloaded, we will no longer approve new comments about the Parlour review.

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Marrakesh Cafe and Nick and Sam's. Zen Sushi in the Bishop Arts District and Parlour Cafe and Wine Bar are also reviewed.

Is Nick and Sam's an old favorite? Have you tried any of these newcomers? Do you agree with our reviews? Disagree? Leave a comment below.

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The latest venture from Alberto Lombardi, La Cubanita, is now officially open at 4444 McKinney Ave. -- a venue filled with good vibes from its previous incarnation as the beloved Chez Gerard.

We were there Monday for the cafe's first night and can report that La Cubanita's roast-pork dinner special, with its crispy exterior and juicy, fork-tender insides, quickly won the hearts of everyone at the table. (Mr. Lombardi says the recipe comes from his wife Vivian's family, which is of Cuban extraction.) The pork was so good that I almost forgot to taste the Moros y Cristianos, a black beans-and-rice mixture served with it. If the cafe's Cubano sandwich contains pulled pork that's anything like this roast, it should be a winner too.

The appetizer we liked best was the empanada de picadillo (filled with seasoned ground beef, potato, carrots, green peppers and currants), served with guacamole and salsa Cubana. The papitas rellenas -- fried balls of lightly breaded mashed potato filled with beef picadillo -- seemed a bit on the bland side, we agreed. But we munched happily on the crispy "Cuban cigars," seasoned-pork flautas served with guac, crema fresca and a bit of slaw.

La Cubanita's Alberto Lombardi (DMN file photo)

Continue reading "La Cubanita opens quietly on McKinney" »

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Have not yet confirmed this through official channels, but I've heard through in-the-know folks that tonight is the last night for Felissa's in Snider Plaza. Felissa LaFlamme was the original owner of glorious York Street, which she sold to Sharon Hage in 2001. She opened Felissa's in 2005.

I dined at Felissa's this past September -- I remember enjoying venison-chipotle sausage in tomatillo sauce and a variation on New Orleans-style court-bouillion, redfish in an herby tomato sauce over white rice. Nice selections of wines by the glass, as well. The place seems a good fit for the neighborhood.

I'll report back when I hear back from Ms. LaFlamme or someone from the restaurant, but if you've been a fan of this spot, you might want to swing by tonight.

Update: Just got off the phone with Ms. LaFlamme, and it's definitely true: Tonight is the restaurant's last night. She attributes her closing to the classic restaurant curse -- "location, location, location." It's a possibility that the restaurant, or some variation, will return in a new spot, though Ms. LaFlamme says she hasn't found the right space yet.

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Addison-based Pizza Hut is introducing a "value solution" that might come in handy during this NFL playoff season: the $5 pizza.

The new medium-sized Pizza Mia is geared, the company says, to "consumers feeling the pinch of rising gas prices and a slowing economy." It features "sauce made from vine-ripened California tomatoes and whole-milk mozzarella cheese."

What makes it a "value" deal: If you order three or more one-topping Pizza Mia pizzas, the price is $5 per pizza. (However, if you order fewer than three pizzas, each Pizza Mia is $6.99.)

The newcomer is supposed to be a permanent addition to Pizza Hut's menu, and it's available every day.

Posted by Joyce Saenz Harris at 3:05 PM | Permalink | Comments (5) | TrackBacks (0)

If only we opened our snail mail as promptly as our pals at PegasusNews.com apparently do, we could have already told you about Woodlands. The new North Dallas grill plans its grand opening for next Thursday, Jan. 17, with a 7 p.m. event benefiting the Vogel Alcove.

However, since we have lately been moving like molasses in January, we will simply note that yes, this is indeed happening, it's for a very good cause, and if you'd like to attend, you should check out the Woodlands website and follow the links for the grand opening. Or call 972-239-2024 for more information. Woodlands Grill is located at 6073 Forest Lane, just east of Preston Road.

Continue reading "Woodlands opening in North Dallas" »

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Dallas' favorite barbecue shack, Sonny Bryan's, is tossing a party to celebrate its 50th anniversary at the original, hallowed 2202 Inwood Rd. location.

Circle the calendar for Wednesday, Feb. 13, and be sure to show up early -- the public reception starts at 11 a.m.

You're sure to spot a few celebs there, including chef Dean Fearing, who's serving as a Sonny's spokesperson for this commemorative year. Dean, a longtime master of the grill, uses Sonny Bryan's sauce with the 'cue at his Fearing's restaurant.

(Sonny Bryan's rib dinner at the original Inwood Road location.
DMN file photo by Milton Hinnant)

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Restaurateur Mark Brezinski wrote to tell me that, after a few delays, his new Bengal Coast is now open for lunch and dinner. Brezinski co-founded Pei Wei Asian Diner and Tin Star but last year turned his full attention to this new concept, the first of which is in Oak Lawn’s Centrum building. It offers dishes inspired from what he calls “the other Asia:” India, Thailand, Indonesia and Malaysia. Will certainly be interesting to see if his tinkering with these ancient, spice-laden cuisines catches the public’s attention. Totally groovy intro on the restaurant’s web site.

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We've been hearing lots of good things about the changes at the Mansion Restaurant at Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek. So last night my editor, Cathy Barber, and I went to check out the new tasting menus from executive chef John Tesar.

It did not disappoint. The Chef's Room was a pretty awesome experience, with service that never faltered and a lovely, intimate setting in front of the former library's elegant fireplace. Dinner technically consisted of three courses, but there was an amuse-bouche, a cheese course, and so many pre-dinner and mid-dinner bites and extras that we literally lost track.

I didn't get quite so adventurous in my ordering as my boss did. (You can read in the post below all about Cathy's experience with a dish involving cock's comb -- a chicken part that I don't think any of us at the table had ever eaten before.)

(Photo of the Chef's Room courtesy of Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek)

Continue reading "More on Chef's Room at the Mansion..." »

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A tiny part of me wanted to think that "cock's comb" on the dinner menu at the Mansion Restaurant was maybe some sort of boutique green.

Not.

It is what it is -- that spiky thing on a rooster's head. This. Chef John Tesar serves it in a broth with spinach and sweetbreads that have been lightly battered and fried.

Loved the sweetbreads. Glad to say I have tried the cock's comb. It tasted a bit like thick pasta with a hint of chickeniness. Not at all chewy. And not red, rather more of a pale fleshy color.

Our waiter kindly sliced a couple into strips and passed them around the table, and the plate did NOT come back empty.

Still, been there, done that. Don't have to do it again.

Posted by Cathy Barber at 3:08 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Ounce Prime Steakhouse, the new and buzzworthy North Dallas chophouse, and he pays a revisit to Lanny's Alta Cocina Mexicana, Lanny Lancarte II's Fort Worth spot that mixes Mexican flavors and New American cooking.

Do you agree? Disagree? Leave a comment below.

Posted by Shannon Sutlief at 6:09 PM | Permalink | Comments (6) | TrackBacks (0)

In more chefs-on-the-move news ... I chatted with former Landmark Restaurant chef Joel Harloff today and he confirms that he is no longer associated with Screen Door restaurant coming 2008 to One Arts Plaza. Harloff was previously serving as exec chef for the project from Cafe Italia founder Scott Jones.

What's next? The chef is consulting with Barry Tate, owner of The Londoner in Addison and McKinney, to open up an Uptown outpost of the popular English pub haunts two doors down from TABC (Thomas Avenue Beverage Co.).

"We're taking the menu concept that Barry has made so successful and Uptowning it," says Harloff. That translates into more upscale appetizers such as mussels, but the chef assures us that the traditional pub favorites such as shepherd's pie will remain on the menu.

Harloff also hints that a Frisco location is in the works. We'll keep you posted.

Photo by Nan Coulter

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If you've always fantasized about making a souffle to impress your friends at your next dinner party, be sure to check out Wednesday's Taste cover.

We'll tell you how a souffle is made, present tips for novices and offer a couple of basic recipes to help you get started.

There are step-by-step photos of a souffle being made by Cherif Brahmi, executive chef of Rise No. 1, a souffle bistro opening soon in Inwood Village. And we give you the story behind this unusual new restaurant and the team responsible for its creation.

Also, watch our online video of French Room executive chef Jason Weaver as he whips up a Grand Marnier souffle, a dessert for which his restaurant is justly famous.

(DMN photo of chef Cherif Brahmi's Grand Marnier souffle: Evans Caglage)

Posted by Joyce Saenz Harris at 3:34 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Okay, I've been on vacation, so I'm a bit behind on my gossip, but D's Nancy Nichols reports that Pegasus News' Teresa Gubbins reports (I know, it's like high school all over again) that hot dish Nick Badovinus has left the building. Specifically, Consilient Restaurants' building, where Badovinus and company founder Tristan Simon dreamed up such foodie hits as Hibiscus, Fireside Pies and The Porch.

What's next for bad boy Badovinus? We'll keep you posted.

Photo by Courtney Perry.

Posted by Christopher Wynn at 5:01 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

It's been a fortnight of unexpected restaurant closures, beginning with Tecole Taco House, then Petit Fours and now Arc-en-Ciel.

Eats reader Rich tipped us about the latter, a beloved dim sum place in Garland at Walnut and Jupiter. He told us via e-mail, "Sad. Went by last night after trying for two days to reach them on the phone. The manager at Tasty China says they closed on January 2."

Got your own tip about a restaurant that has closed, changed menus, recently opened or maybe just doesn't live up to its review? Let me know, and I'll investigate.

Posted by Shannon Sutlief at 3:12 PM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)

Eats reader Tara passed along a tip that Petit Fours, the imaginative cake shop in the West Village's Mondrian, was closing. According to the web site, it's true. Tara, who was there the day before Christmas, wants to know why it suddenly closed, and so do we. We'll let you know when we know.

Posted by Shannon Sutlief at 12:32 PM | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBacks (0)

Columnist James Ragland has the swell story of Katrina evacuee Catherine Henley, who has opened a Cajun restaurant in Oak Cliff.

Posted by Cathy Barber at 5:47 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

We chatted yesterday with Mark Maguire, one of the principals in rise no. 1, the new souffle-and-wine bistro that's opening soon in Inwood Village.

Mr. Maguire and his partners, creative manager Hedda Gioia Dowd and executive chef Cherif Brahmi, had hoped to get the bistro open by New Year's. But technological details (specifically, precise calibration of their special souffle-baking ovens) have pushed the date back to mid-January. Mr. Maguire now says he's expecting rise no. 1 to open sometime between Jan. 10 and Jan. 16.

Posted by Joyce Saenz Harris at 11:38 AM | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBacks (0)

This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews The Grape with new owners Brian and Courtney Luscher. He's the chef; she's the general manager.

The other new reviews are a revisit to Cru, a Wine Bar in Plano's The Shops at Legacy and a revisit to Ruth's Chris Steak House, which explains just why it's called Ruth's Chris Steak House.

And in case you missed it during the holidays, check out our Year in Review: Restaurants package. Read and ogle a slideshow of Bill's top 10 new restaurants, then check out Bill's personal upscale favorites, new restaurants, and notable closings.

As always, don't forget to tell us what you think about the reviews.

Posted by Shannon Sutlief at 6:33 PM | Permalink | Comments (15) | TrackBacks (0)

Hill Country-flavored Fireside Pies is now serving pizza in Grapevine, as well as Plano and Dallas. The details: 1285 S. Main Street. 817-416-1285. 5 to 10 Sunday-Thursday, 5 till 11:00 Friday and Saturday.

Our Shannon Sutlief notes that Fireside is expected to open store No. 4 by February in the former Urban Bistro/In Restaurant spot on Inwood Road at Lovers Lane.

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Read Restaurant Critic Bill Addison's top 10 new restaurants of 2007 in slideshow format.

Read Bill's 10 personal fave upscale places, plus read lists of new restaurants and notable restaurant closings

Do you agree with Bill's picks? Tell us what you think, share your own best-ofs and let us know what new restaurants you're most looking forward to trying.

Posted by Shannon Sutlief at 9:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (12) | TrackBacks (0)

Those of you who have been waiting impatiently for Dallas' first souffle bistro will have to wait only a little longer. Rise no. 1 is now scheduled to open in Inwood Village on Jan. 8. Executive chef Cherif Brahmi's menu will feature savory and sweet souffles, and there will be a full wine list chosen for its pairing potential.

Andf we hear that the Stoneleigh Hotel & Spa now is set to open sometime in February. Also debuting there: Bolla, the modern Italian restaurant from award-winning executive chef David Bull, who formerly headed the Driskill Grill in Austin.

Stay tuned for updates!

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This just in from chef Richard Chamberlain:
"Just a heads up to those of you who have not heard. My 12-year-old son Stephen and I will be doing 2 segments on the Today Show in New York next Thursday morning, Dec. 27. No specific times yet. Wishing everyone a safe and joyous holiday season."

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Run, don't walk, to the new Nonna (in the former Food Company space, across from Whole Foods Market) for their handmade flatbread. They serve it piping hot from a wood-burning oven, puffed-up with steam, drizzled with olive oil and topped with sea salt.

You could stop there, but of course you won't, and neither did we. The thin-crust white pizza with clams, white wine sauce and plenty of Parmigiano-Reggiano was euphoria served by the slice.

The only thing that brought us back down to earth were the desserts. My advice? Skip them for now until they work the kinks out.

It just leaves more room for the flatbread.

Nonna, 4115 Lomo Alto Drive across from Whole Foods Market in Highland Park, 214-521-1800

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Ferrari's Italian Villa in Grapevine and Vietnam Restaurant in East Dallas.

The other new reviews are of Copeland's of New Orleans in Southlake and Iravat India's Bistro in Plano near Asia World Market.

Do you agree? Disagree? Leave a comment below.

Posted by Shannon Sutlief at 8:55 PM | Permalink | Comments (8) | TrackBacks (0)

Word is that La Cubanita, the new Alberto Lombardi venture that's been taking shape for the past few months in the old Chez Gerard space (4444 McKinney Ave.), is slated to open by the new year. "Probably Dec. 29," is the official guess.

PR guy Bill Armstrong shares one reason why it's taken this long to open: "We've been delayed because thieves stole the electricity meter outside the restaurant, and the way it was ripped out caused the interior wiring to be damaged. It all had to be replaced."

La Cubanita will be open for breakfast, lunch and dinner -- and on Fridays and Saturday, it will stay open till 3 a.m. for you night owls out there. There'll be a rum bar with almost 100 choices, and the kitchen will be headed by executive chef Vernon Morales.

On the menu: Cuban and Cuban-inspired dishes, including plaintain, taro and tortilla crisps, a.k.a. mariquitas, with three dips (see photo); calamares tamarindo (crispy marinated calamari in tamarind sauce); papitas rellenas (lightly breaded mashed potato filled with beef picadillo); specialty empanadas; churrasco (marinated beef skirt steak); and of course the traditional Cubano sandwich of pulled pork.

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Like Ben, an Eats blogger who commented on the previous post, we went to try out Grimaldi's in West Village last night. I can't compare it to the mother ship, never having made it to Patsy Grimaldi's in B'klyn, but the overall first impression was a good one.

This is definitely New York-style pizza -- very different from the Italian-style pies down the street at Campania. We ordered a large (18-inch) pizza with Grimaldi's basic fresh-tomato sauce for $15, and added Italian sausage, mushrooms and extra homemade mozz for $2 each.

The crust was nice, thin and crisp; the mozzarella was generously distributed, and the Italian sausage tasted the way it should. Lots of intense, distinct flavors in this pizza. Besides the red-sauce pie, you can also get a white or a pesto pizza, all in personal (12-inch) or small (16-inch) sizes, as well as the 18" large. Those are also the three sizes of calzones available.

(Grimaldi's Dallas interior, minus a few decorative finishing touches
that are now in place. Photo courtesy of Patsy Grimaldi's.)

Continue reading "Checking out Grimaldi's Pizzeria in West Village" »

Posted by Joyce Saenz Harris at 10:32 AM | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBacks (0)

We've been talking about this place for months, but now it's finally here. Patsy Grimaldi's, the Brooklyn-based pizzeria, opened yesterday in West Village -- 3636 McKinney Ave., Suite 190, 214-559-4611.

Their specialty is coal-fired, brick-oven pizza, but Grimaldi's also serves calzones, an antipasto platter and four kinds of salad, as well as hot and cold beverages and desserts.

At the moment, Grimaldi's is open daily for dinner, 5 p.m. to midnight; eventually they plan to open for lunch as well. They do take reservations, but only for parties of five or more.

Photo courtesy of patsygrimaldis.com

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Dallas dining went to extremes this year. From glitzy Vegas and New York transplants (N9NE, Nove, BLT Steak, Charlie Palmer), to a former Dairy Queen-turned-boutique eatery (Kavala), it was all enough to keep foodies' plates spinning. Here, a look at some of the year's major trends and players.

What were your favorite hot-spots this year?

Photo from BLT Steak

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Dallas businessman and restaurateur Joey Shashy is Lebanese-American -- but he also comes from El Paso, so he knows about good Tex-Mex. He is, after all, the man behind the wildly successful Uncle Julio's restaurant chain. And in his private life, he's an excellent amateur cook who makes Lebanese cookies for his friends every holiday season. This is a guy who loves good food.

Joey has just opened a new "upscale fast casual Mexican concept" in the Shops of Southlake. Mi Chula's Good Mexican is located at 1431 Southlake Blvd., and it features family-friendly counter service with tableside delivery.

Among the dishes on the menu (which is displayed on four 42-inch LCD TV monitors) are fish tacos, guisada, asada steak, tamales, borracho beans, shrimp fajitas, chicken or beef fajitas, veggie fajitas, and spinach and roasted vegetable quesadillas, along with signature margaritas and other drinks.

Mi Chula's is open daily, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; call 817-756-6920 or 877-642-4852 for more information.

(DMN file photo of Joey Shashy by Randy Eli Grothe)

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If you plan to explore the Bishop Arts District's culinary options on Monday, Dec. 17, check out Zen Sushi. You might enjoy the menu, and apppreciate knowing that a part of the proceeds (from dinner, 6 to 10 p.m.) will benefit Twelve Hills Nature Center. There'll also be holiday music, magic tricks, as well as complimentary dessert samples by chef Michelle Carpenter.

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The weather last night was cold and grim. But the scene at the new Ounce Prime Steakhouse in Addison was anything but.

The grand opening (a benefit for UNICEF's Mexico Flood Emergency Efforts) was lively, to say the least; Big Ink PR guy Jeff Yarbrough said it reminded him of his old Deep Ellum club-opening days. Nearly every square inch of floor was jammed with well-dressed people, while waiters gamely made their way through the crowd bearing trays of wine and hors d'oeuvres.

Somewhere out there, we presumed, there were nibbles of prime beef, the restaurant's main attraction. But we never got close to any of it. The beef trays were mobbed as soon as they emerged from the kitchen, as if a cloud of locusts had descended.

And the prime-beef buffet table in the big dining room had a line about 70 people long. Ai-yi-yi. Fuhgeddaboutit! We settled for a couple of huge crab claws instead. The seafood buffet in the smaller dining room had a nice array of giant shrimp and oysters on the half-shell, too -- quite tasty and all far more accessible than the coveted USDA Prime.

Continue reading "More bounce to the Ounce" »

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison revisits Craft in the W Hotel. How did Top Chef Tom Colicchi's place do? Click and find out.

The other new reviews are L'Ancestral , a French mainstay in Uptown, and BayGrill, a new seafood place in Frisco.

Do you agree? Disagree? Leave a comment below.

Posted by Shannon Sutlief at 9:08 PM | Permalink | Comments (8) | TrackBacks (0)

First things first: Tre Wilcox, who’s leaving his position as chef de cuisine of Abacus in January, says he has no intention of moving away from Dallas.

“Once I decide to open a restaurant, I’ll be bringing it home for Texas first. I have a clientele and a fan base here. Once I make Dallas a destination for my cooking, I might consider expanding to other cities.”

So what is Wilcox up to in the foreseeable future? He landed an endorsement deal with a cookware line that he declines to name as yet, though he mentions that it will include a media tour. He says he’s talked to several different television networks but is still weighing the merits of each.

And he’ll be offering his services as a private chef to Dallas residents. “At the end of the day, I still have to build my reputation on being a great cook,” he says. His website, www.cheftre.com, will be up in a week or so.

He’s been considering leaving Abacus for the past couple months. “I’m being pulled in a lot of directions right now, with events and opportunities, and I didn’t want, in 10 or 15 years time, to look back and regret not taking advantage of the possibilities.”

But he acknowledges it will be hard to jump from the restaurant nest. “I’m sure they’ll be tears. Chef Kent [Rathbun] has been like a culinary father to me. He and [partner] Robert Hoffman raised me, took me in and then let me grow on my own. I’ll always be grateful to them.”

Posted by Bill Addison at 11:49 AM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

Tre Wilcox, the Dallas chef who attracted national attention this year
as a Top Chef contestant, is leaving his position as chef de cuisine at
Abacus.

Read more from Restaurant Critic Bill Addison.

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Chef Richard Calhoun, who used to be at the Samba Room, heads the kitchen at the new Ounce Prime Steakhouse at 14866 Montfort Dr. in Addison. The restaurant's grand opening is a Dec. 12 benefit event for UNICEF, with UNICEF chair Carolyn Farb of Houston expected to attend, along with noted Austin vegetarian/humorist/musician/sometime politico Kinky Friedman, and Addison Mayor Joe Chow -- who with that surname really needs to be at every restaurant opening in Addison.

Over in Rockwall, the Hilton Bella Harbor's Mistra restaurant has hired chef Steven Weir away from the Belo Mansion, HQ of the Dallas Bar Association. Haven't heard of this hotel on Lake Ray Hubbard? That's because it's not open yet. Mistra is scheduled to debut in spring 2008.

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Paradise Bakery (annoying music alert) recently opened in the former Storehouse Furniture space on Alpha Road, just north of the Galleria Dallas.
The California Turkey Sandwich is a pretty hearty lunch. Order it to go and eat half later. I could barely eat both halves of it.
Just try ordering something and not getting something sweet with it. Everything looks good — I liked the big, soft sugar cookies.
And the Alpha Road/Tollway store has a small sitting area in the back, with a TV. Perfect for those awaiting more-hardy Galleria hikers.
John Lose

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Readers have been sounding off all afternoon. We've combined the new comments with those from our last Tex-Mex episode a few weeks back. Get the scoop on Dallas Tex-Mex here.

Shown: Pepito's Special (front) and Brisket Tacos at Avila's, by Rex C. Curry

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Eats readers confessed their love affairs with the Tex-Mex combo plate last month when we asked, Who has the best Tex-Mex in Dallas? Now it's Restaurant Critic Bill Addison's turn. In his latest Diner's Notebook column, he chronicles the beginnings of his quest for knowledge about Dallas' best Tex-Mex. He shares those adventures here: Deep in the heart of Tex-Mex. I know you're going to tell us what you think. But Bill has a special request: "So I pose these questions: Tell me not only where I should eat my next Tex-Mex meal, but what specifically I should order there to make me a convert. A special shout-out to Rafa's and Ojeda's die-hards: What did I miss?"

Speaking of Tex-Mex, Bill reviews Oak Cliff favorite El Ranchito this week. The other new reviews are Ali Baba's new Richardson location and Taste of Galilee, the Plano branch of Snider Plaza's Food from Galilee.

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A week from today, December 11, the Rosewood Mansion will roll out the next phase of its culinary makeover: The Chef's Room. The foundation of the experience is a three-course prix-fixe menu, though guests can opt for a four, six or eight course extravaganza.

Dessert details are still sketchy, since new executive pastry chef David Collier just started. But the restaurant is definitely introducing a candy cart, full of luxe, house-made versions of confections like lollipops, marshmallows and toffee.

Coming in January, the final frontier of Rosewood Mansion dining will be available: a menu-less "chef's interactive table" (pictured above) at which dinner is whipped up from the nightly whims of executive chef John Tesar.

A preview of the three-course prix-fixe appears after the jump, as does an example of a seven-course vegetarian menu.

Continue reading "Choices, choices at the Mansion" »

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The day before the Mansion's renovated bar and main dining room reopened, I interviewed executive chef John Tesar about the renovation and he gave me a tour of the redone dining rooms. Watch the video of the tour here. Chef Tesar had plenty more to say, so check out this Q&A, which includes his thoughts on the soon-to-open Chef's Room. Read Chef John Tesar discusses the Mansion's makeover.

Have you been to the new Mansion? Share your experience.

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison visits Nana in the Hilton Anatole. Did it keep its place in the Top 100? Click and see.

The other new reviews are first looks at The Fish in the West Village and Fillmore Pub in Downtown Plano.

Do you agree? Disagree? Leave a comment below.

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On Over the Top, Mr. Dallas discusses this week's opening events for BLT Steak, the new North Dallas steakhouse chain. Get more info on the restaurant here.

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Dallas restaurateur Mark Maguire learned to love French food back in the day, when he was living in Paris and working for Disney.

Now he and his executive chef at Maguire's, Cherif Brahmi, are joining forces with Hedda Gioia Dowd, the owner of Antique Harvest, to create a "salon de souffle" and wine bar in Inwood Village.

The bistro -- called rise no. 1 -- is scheduled for a "soft" opening in early December, with a grand opening to follow in January.

The owners say they are committed to the "Slow Food" movement and will focus on using local, regional, green and sustainable resources in the new space.

Chef Cherif Brahmi and restaurateur Mark Maguire at the M Grill & Tap in 2003.
(DMN file photo by Randy Eli Grothe)

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Cliff Cafe, the funky diner inside Oak Cliff's Belmont Hotel. Our critics also revisited Oak Cliff's Gonzalez Restaurant and Paesano's Ristorante.

As always, leave a comment below to let us know if you agree or disagree.

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... turns out, with plenty of help from this nifty, triple-sphere fan in the kitchen.

Just one of my observations while we were in the kitchen with Gottlich recently. We were there to photograph new exec pastry chef Elizabeth Barbato as she prepared a tasty treat for the current issue of F!D luxe.

Get the recipe and plenty more here.

Photo: Gottlich in on his day off, shot by cwynn

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Restaurant Critic Bill Addison's review of Fearing's, which he gave four stars overall but only three stars for food, has prompted readers to share their reviews of Dean Fearing's post-Mansion debut and give their assessment of Bill's review.

From reader Corrie...

I completely agree with Bill Addison's review. We dined at Fearing's last week and were quite disappointed in the experience. ... Not likely we will return any time soon. Stephan Pyles and Abacus are by far safer and tastier bets.

I absolutely loved my lunch at Fearing's. I sat at the Chef's Counter and received the royal treatment by the staff and Chef Fearing. My tenderloin was exceptional - in fact, the entire meal from salad to dessert was perfection.

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Some news this week from Bijoux, the Inwood Village jewel run by chef-owner Scott Gottlich (left) and his sommelier wife, Gina.

We were there on Saturday night when Gina told us that, thanks to popular demand, Bijoux would soon be open on Mondays. That's now been officially confirmed, as Scott just announced the restaurant will offer dinner service Mondays starting Dec. 3. (Bijoux remains closed on Sundays.) The fall menu includes slow-braised short ribs, Maine lobster and seared Hudson Valley foie gras.

Bijoux also is presenting a special seven-course truffle dinner on Nov. 29, priced at $125 per person ($175 with wine pairings). Each course features the winter black truffle in forms ranging from mousse to jus, butter to consomme, and even black truffle ice cream.

We had a sampling of Scott's way with a truffle on Saturday: the purple sweet potato agnolotti, with beurre noisette, Parmigiano-Reggiano and fine shavings of black truffle. The truffle dinner will offer a similar agnolotti, this one with fromage blanc.

For reservations or more information, see the Bijoux web site or call 214-350-6100.

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Uptown seafood restaurant The Cape has closed. The building at 2704 Worthington, which previously housed the barely-open NOW Restaurant and – before that – longtime fave Johnny Orleans, is open again, but The Cape's Kurt Kretsinger reports that a "well-known restaurateur" is acquiring the space.

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It's finally here: Restaurant Critic Bill Addison's review of Fearing's. How many stars did it earn? Does it warrant a spot on the Top 100? Click and find out.

Want more Fearing's? You can read Bill's first peek, see a photo slideshow or watch Dean Fearing's video tour.

This week's other new reviews are Patry's Bistro and Wine Bar, Luna de Noche's Tex-Mex Gourmet and Sheik's Restaurant. As always, leave a comment below to let us know if you agree or disagree.

Thanksgiving is a week away. Use our Thanksgiving Day dining guide to see which restaurants are offering specials. Or find cooking classes and wine tastings to plan that holiday at home.

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We warned you about this a while back. Now it's happening. Antares, the revolving restaurant atop Reunion Tower, is closing for 12 to 14 months for extensive renovations:

The $55 million renovations will shut down the observation deck, which has for years provided sweeping views of the city, and affect the neighboring Hyatt Regency Dallas hotel and Union Station. Antares restaurant, located in the tower, will close its doors after serving its last dinner guests Thursday, said hotel spokeswoman Priscilla Hagstrom. But the restaurant would still offer its holiday brunches in another part of the hotel.

The Dome, the adjoining cocktail lounge, also will close and will be combined with Antares when the restaurant reopens in late 2008 or early 2009.
Reunion Tower's nightly light show, however, will continue to play uninterrupted, as the renovations affect only the tower's interior. See this DMN story for more details...

Reunion Tower's observation deck and Antares restaurant will be closed for at least a year. (DMN file photo by Elizabeth M. Claffey)

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Metro blog wrangler Steve Harris, who is related to me by marriage, sends word that he has checked out the new incarnation of Vern's soul-food palace:

A group of us went to Vern's new digs in Deep Ellum (2807 Elm St.) for lunch, and I'm glad to report that the heavenly smothered ribs are still heavenly. But, man, do you have to pay for your fix: $14.15 for the ribs, two vegetables and iced tea. Really, though, I'm not complaining. It was worth every penny, and pound. One of my colleagues always gets nervous when we go to Vern's. He's afraid they'll run out of the smothered ribs. He actually breaks into a sweat while waiting in line.

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews The Club. The other new reviews are Lawry's the Prime Rib and First Chinese BBQ in Plano. Do you agree? Disagree? Leave a comment below.

It's time to make your holiday reservations. Our Thanksgiving Day dining guide is online now, and the Christmas one is in the works. Restaurant folks, if you're having a brunch, lunch or dinner for Thanksgiving, Christmas or New Year's, email me at ssutlief@dallasnews.com. I'm your holiday dining listings girl.

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VegNews Magazine just named Fort Worth's vegan eatery, Spiral Diner and Bakery, the editors' pick for "Restaurant of the Year" in its 2007 Veggie Awards. Read the story here (you'll have to scroll half-way down the page or search for "Spiral" to find it). It starts with this praise: "What gives a restaurant star quality? Delish vegan food, for starters. Think homey mashed potatoes and gravy, savory meatball sandwiches, Sunday morning pancakes and fresh-baked pies. Mmmm." Is it any wonder? Just check out the online menu. For those east of Cowtown who need their fix of Jamaican jerk barbecue sandwiches and tofu migas (my personal faves), a Dallas location of Spiral Diner is expected to open later this year.

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On Monday before the doors opened on the new Mansion Restaurant, I interviewed chef John Tesar on camera in the new main dining room, then I recorded the tour as he showed me around the Chef's Room, veranda and patio. See the video of the new space and hear his take on the renovation here: Mansion restaurant unveils new look.

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After months of renovation work, Rosewood's Mansion on Turtle Creek Restaurant reopens today — or at least the main dining room does. You’ll have to wait until later this year for the debut of the new Chef’s Room in the original Sheppard King Library.

At a preview dinner last night, we got a first look at the updated dining room and liked what we saw. Yes, it’s more modern looking than the old Mansion, but it’s every bit as classy, even without tablecloths on the ebony wood tables. And the comfy room has a relaxed, fun vibe; there’s nothing staid about it. The inviting design elements include honey-colored textured walls, contemporary artwork, and leather and velvet sofas lined with throw pillows that make you feel right at home. So does the relaxed dress code — no jackets required.

Oh, yes, and about Chef John Tesar’s food: I’m no restaurant critic but we had no problem savoring our appetizers (fois gras and duck confit) or entrees (butter-poached Maine lobster and baby turbot).

Don Nichols

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The Mansion Restaurant, at the ill-renamed ROSEWOOD Mansion on Turtle Creek, is set to reopen tomorrow with new menus from executive chef John Tesar. The more-exclusive Chef's Room will open closer to the end of the year, according to the Mansion's PR maven, Erika Gonzalez.

Erika forwarded me some sneak-peek copies of the revamped menus. Take a look following the jump ...

Continue reading "Sneak peek at the Mansion's new menus" »

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Strong's Everyday Tavern, Larry Lavine's new American eatery in Uptown. The Counter, a California burger chain with an outpost in Plano, and Nandina, the late night Asian tapas spot on Lower Greenville, are also reviewed.

Our Thanksgiving Day dining guide is online now. Get the early list here. Restaurant folks, if you're having a brunch, lunch or dinner for Thanksgiving, Christmas or New Year's, email me at ssutlief@dallasnews.com. I'm your holiday dining listings girl.

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Just touched base with Edward Searle, Director of Food & Beverage at the Warwick Melrose Hotel, about the property's search for a new executive chef for its Landmark restaurant (which was last given four-and-a-half stars by Dotty Griffith in 2004).

Searle revealed that the reason behind the protracted search is that the restaurant may radically change direction in the New Year. Since the historic Melrose was purchased by Warwick International in February, discussions have been underway to make the restaurant less formal. "That's certainly the direction Dallas seems to be going in," said Searle. "In any case, we'll let the new owners of the hotel take the lead on the concept change."

In the meantime, executive sous chef Eric Holt continues to helm the kitchen and the menu. Searle also said the hotel's bar will undergo a major renovation in early 2008.

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Some interesting culinary innovations are, as usual, cooking in chef Anthony C. Bombaci's kitchen at Nana, the 27th-floor restaurant atop the Hilton Anatole tower.

Wednesday night, we got a taste of the new seasonal menu while seated at a table (Table 42, if you want to ask for it) that had a spectacular view of downtown Dallas' skyline. Visual bonus: a silvery full moon floating over the city.

And for the lucky diners to take home? A candy box containing six chocolate truffles -- and a 3-ounce slab of chocolate adorned with the portrait of "Nana," the restaurant's namesake. She's the lovely, voluptuous and mostly nude lady in a famous 1881 oil painting by D. Marcel Suchorowsky. Since its purchase by Trammell and Margaret Crow in 1981, the painting has graced the wall above the bar at Nana.

PHOTO: Portrait of Nana, reproduced on a 3-ounce slab of chocolate

Continue reading "Nifty night at Nana" »

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Joe Drape of the New York Times gets all serious about Tex-Mex in today's issue.
I'm totally on board with Robb Walsh, the Houston writer quoted extensively, including this pronoucement: "The embodiment of Tex-Mex is a cheese enchilada with gravy."
Mr. Drape is a staunch supporter of Herrera's on Maple Avenue in Dallas, where he gets an enchilada plate with a taco on the side.
Tell us: Where's your favorite Tex-Mex in Dallas? What do you order?

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Plano's Yao Fuzi Cuisine. In his Diner's Notebook column called "The dollars and sense of dining out," he questions when a meal's expensive is worth it.

When restaurant reviewers wrestle with the weekly and ever-sticky conundrum of assigning star ratings, one major factor we take into account is this: Does the price of the meal feel fair in relation to its quality?

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J.W. Foster is the new top toque at the Pyramid Grill in the Fairmont Hotel downtown. Foster was previously the executive sous chef at the Royal York Hotel in Toronto, another Fairmont property.

More details, hopefully including a glimpse of his new menu, forthcoming ...

Update: Just a couple more details, actually. Mr. Foster has been at the gig less than two weeks, and he won't be unrolling a menu of his own vision until January. Looking forward to seeing what comes up with -- a Canadian perspective could be a welcome, left-of-center addition to the scene.

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Alan Peppard managed a sneak at the remodeled dining rooms and bar at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek. As is usually the case in restaurant remodels, the exact opening date is a moving target.

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Saturday was so gorgeous we took a road trip to Waxahachie (which allegedly contains more Victorian-area houses per capita than anywhere else in the country? Email me if you know for sure) and its famed haunted Catfish Plantation.

This gingerbread charmer was in full Halloween swing with festive orange lights, spooky spirit decor and plenty of creepy sound effects (visit the "haunted" restrooms at your own risk). The crowd lined up on the patio to get in was loving every minute of it. We did, too.

The food was in top-form and, of course, far from low-cal: hand-dipped buttermilk-battered onion rings and fried pickles, fresh catfish rolled in crumbly cornmeal and fried golden brown, bountiful salads, and home-style veggies such as okra and tomatoes.

You may have heard that the haunted eatery was recently posted for sale on eBay by its longtime owners, Tom and Melissa Baker. Well, I can report that its new owners are brothers Ryan Rodriguez and Jim Ensinia. Jim worked at the eatery growing up and both brothers clearly have a passion for the place. Rodriguez says future plans include a new awning to cover the front porch and extend the eatery's outdoor dining options.

The Haunted Catfish Plantation, 814 Water St., Waxahachie, 972-937-9468.

Photo: Melanie Burford/DMN

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Keeping up with Dean Fearing's national magazine exposure has become a full-time job lately.

First, we broke the news last week that Fearing's debut Ritz eatery was named "Best New Restaurant of the Year" by Esquire.

Now, D's Sarah Eveans brings us this item on Frontburner that Food and Wine is having a very Dean Fearing Thanksgiving in their Nov. issue. (I'll confess my copy is still sitting wrapped in plastic on my desk).

I'm seriously contemplating trying that Tortilla-Corn Bread Dressing this year.

Photo: Fearing celebrates his new status as national media darling. Okay, kidding. This was shot during the Bon Appetit-Ritz Carlton weekend by Cheryl Diaz Meyer.

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Dallas Fish Market, which is in Jeroboam's old space in the Kirby building downtown. The other new reviews are Bread Winners in Plano's Lakeside Market (it's where Kathleen Art Cafe used to be); Rice Paper, a new-ish Vietnamese spot in Rockwall; and the original Gaston Avenue location of Brothers Fried Chicken.

Do you agree? Disagree? Leave a comment below.

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Editor Tracy Hayes chatted with Chandler Burr --- the first-ever perfume critic for The New York Times --- for the October issue of F!D luxe.

Burr has partnered with Dallas-based Rosewood Hotels & Resorts (as in the newly renamed the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek) to host a series of "scent dinners," five-course meals inspired by the notes found in different perfumes – with commentary by the connoisseur himself.

I loved this tid-bit from Burr: "The idea of food plus perfume freaks people out; they think they're going to be eating Chanel No. 5."

Read about what happens when perfumes and gourmet dishes collide.

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Eats foodie friend and DMN business reporter Suzanne Marta reports that the Mansion on Turtle Creek is now Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek. Read her brief: It's now the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek. Then, tell us: What do you think of the name change? How does this compare to the dress code change?

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Pretty much all summer we've been telling you about Villa-O, the "organic pastaria" planned by entrepreneur Robert Colombo. It's occupying the former Samba Room space in Travis Walk, across the street from Mr. Colombo's wildly popular Trece.

First Villa-O was planned to open in October. Then they said in November. Now they're saying early December.

In case you wondered: This sort of delay is entirely typical of most new restaurants, because restaurants all seem to be run by extremely optimistic people. They have to be optimistic, or they wouldn't be in this very tough business for long.

We'll keep you posted. From the description (fresh handmade pastas to mix-and-match with sauces and extra ingredients, 50 Italian wines, a "family night" on Sunday with $15.95 prix-fixe, three-course, all-you-can-eat dinner menu), it sounds as if Villa-O will be worth waiting for.

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Frida's Mexican Bistro, home of that tasty-looking chile relleno Cozumel at left and lots of Frida Kahlo-inspired art. We also have new reviews for Silver Fox in Oak Lawn, John's Cafe on Lower Greenville and Tin Star in Plano.

Do you agree? Disagree? Hey, old-school John's Cafe fans, what do you think of the new place? Leave a comment below.

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OK, so a couple of weeks ago I posted this innocuous item about how the Southern California buffet chain Sweet Tomatoes will be opening Oct. 15 in Addison. Whereupon I was informed by our alert bloggers, in no uncertain terms, that while Sweet Tomatoes' PR people may think their new place is in Addison, it's actually, technically, in Dallas. Duly noted.

Anyway, now the Sweet Tomatoes people are telling us that this Saturday, from 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., the new place will host a preview event. Patrons can come and sample all the goodies they can eat for $5, and 100 percent of the proceeds will benefit Metrocrest Social Services.

For more information, visit www.sweettomatoes.com.

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Mike Maza delivers more about Fearing's being named Esquire's restaurant of the yearaurant.

Bloggers aren't necessarily in agreement with Mr. Mariani's assessment. Tell us what you think.

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The Sudanese restaurant with no name has been in place for seven or eight months, according to the woman who cooks the food and brings it to the table. But I've just discovered it. Was it a coincidence that the night before I had just finished watching a National Geographic documentary on the lost boys of Sudan, a sweet and poignant look at their plight and the entry of some into the United States?

A friend told me about the place, on the southwest corner of Kingsley and Audelia, with a hand-lettered sign in the window saying "Sudanese food." He was excited, because instead of a menu, there are snapshots of dishes laid out on the counter, and the women in charge kindly explain: "This one is a dahl. This one is spinach with peanuts. This one is made with okra. This is tilapia." They could give you a menu, they say, but the photographs explain it so much more easily.

Continue reading "Sudanese cuisine below the radar" »

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We present the following infobits as a completely candid act of shameless borrowing from our foodie pal Teresa Gubbins over at Pegasusnews.com. Thanks, TG!

Grimaldi's, a traditional New York pizzeria with family roots going back to 1933 Harlem, is opening a Dallas branch in the new section of West Village as of mid-November. It'll feature three sizes of pizza baked in a coal-fired brick oven, calzone, salads, antipasto, desserts, and a full bar.

Vern's Place, the longtime soul-food capital of Deep Ellum, has found a new location at 2807 Elm St. (at Crowdus) and plans to move on Nov. 3.

Heartland Bread has moved its bakery from West Plano to northeast Dallas. Heartland sells bread to Costco, Kroger and Whole Foods Market, as well as to the Heartland Bread Cafe & Sandwich Shop, a family-owned eatery in Arlington.

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Yep, it's true.

I ran into Dean Fearing just hours after he received a faxed advance copy of the piece and I can only describe his mood one way: controlled-giddy.

And who can blame him?

The article is a glowing review. Esquire gives Fearing snaps for everything from his barbecued-shrimp tacos to his custom-made Lucchese cowboy boots. He is cited as "one of America's greatest chefs for twenty years."

My favorite item from the piece was a tid-bit filed as "things we overheard" at Fearing's. One woman is reported telling her companion that they put $6 million into the restaurant. Her friend replies: "Is that a lot?"

Read the full article in the Nov. issue of Esquire.

• Read more on Esquire names Fearing's 'Restaurant of the Year'

Photo (C. Wynn): Fearing's dining room

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Read Bill Addison's take on the conclusion of Top Chef.

What do you think? Did the judges make the right decision?

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Bukhara Grille in Richardson. Other new reviews include a visit to La Aldea, a new Mexican restaurant in Oak Cliff, and revisits to Gloria's on Lemmon Avenue and Kirby's Steakhouse in Plano.

Do you agree? Disagree? Leave a comment below.

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For so many years, Christiano De Martino was the face of Arcodoro and Pomodoro, the friendly, charming guy who kept the front of the restaurant moving. Now he's off to become the general manager of a new place, Shish, a Mediterranean restaurant with a Turkish bent. Look for a mid-November opening in the old Cafe Capri location in Addison.

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DMN society reporter Alan Peppard has this tidbit of tasty restaurant news in today's column:

When construction crews finish up the massive overhaul of the venerable Stoneleigh Hotel, chef David Bull's Italian restaurant, Bolla (Italian for bull), will take up the entire side of the building fronting Wolf Street. Bolla Bar will be on the corner of Wolf and Maple Avenue, with outdoor patio seating facing the Stoneleigh P across the street.

David Bull (photo at right) ruled for several years at the Driskill Hotel as Austin's top-ranked chef and was named one of Food & Wine magazine's top 10 chefs in America. He has faced off against Bobby Flay on the Food Network's Iron Chef America and was a James Beard Award nominee as "Best Chef/Southwest" earlier this year.

But he began his career as sous chef at The Mansion on Turtle Creek -- which means that when he returns to Dallas, he'll be cooking just down the street and around the corner from his former boss, Dean Fearing, at the Ritz-Carlton.

Want to know more on on Bolla and Bolla Bar? Here's what the PR folks say...

Continue reading "David Bull returns to Dallas with Bolla at the Stoneleigh" »

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Word cometh that New York's popular BLT Steak will soon join the fray in the Dallas-Fort Worth steakhouse wars.

Publicists say that BLT Steak will have an outpost at 5301 Alpha Road, east of the Dallas North Tollway, planned to open "this holiday season." That's about all we know for now, but we'll keep you posted.

A word to the would-be wise: BLT, in this context, does not stand for Bacon-Lettuce-Tomato. It stands for Bistro Laurent Tourondel, and its founding chef, Laurent Tourondel, has met with great success since opening BLT Steak ("the modern American steakhouse") in Manhattan in 2004.

The BLT Steak website says chef Tourondel has gone on to create "BLT Fish, BLT Prime, BLT Burger, BLT Steak in Washington D.C. and Puerto Rico, and the nascent BLT Market at The Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park." (Except that BLT Market isn't "nascent" any more; it's up and running as of mid-August.)

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Better hurry up if you were planning to propose at Antares. (A lot of romance-minded people actually do that, we hear.)

Reunion Tower, that 29-year-old landmark in the southwest corner of downtown Dallas, will be closing in mid-November for a makeover. And Antares -- the revolving restaurant atop the tower -- will be closing along with it.

But only temporarily. When it comes back in a year, the restaurant space will be reconfigured and combined with the adjacent lounge space.

Read about Reunion Tower's facelift.

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Stopped in last evening as chef Avner Samuel and his wife, Celeste, celebrated five years in business at Aurora.

There were champagne toasts and, for hors d'oeuvres, an assortment of tiny crostini topped with some of Avner's favorite ingredients: foie gras and fig, beef tartare, and lobster, avocado and caviar.

Guests got to take home an elegant little book filled with recipes for some of Avner's signature dishes. While we doubt we would ever get ambitious enough to try making Aurora's amuse-bouche, a brown eggshell filled with egg custard (this recipe is for the wild-mushroom ragout and maple-syrup cream version), the carmel avocado parfait is something we would actually attempt. Just as soon as we can afford some Royal Iranian Osetra Caviar.

Avner told us he is getting this year's very first shipment of white truffles to reach the U.S. He's planning to use a special new see-through humidor that'll allow guests to view the truffles before opening the box for a sniff. He will be serving the truffles (which are from Alba, Italy) next week, Wednesday through Saturday. To reserve for the special truffle menu, call 214-528-9400.

(Shay Forson photo of Celeste and Avner Samuel, courtesy of Aurora)

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Casey Thompson, executive chef at Dallas restaurant Shinsei, is one challenge away from potentially winning Bravo TV's third season of Top Chef.

Despite leaving her elk chops a little too rare, and serving a cauliflower side dish criticized by lead judge Tom Colicchio, Ms. Thompson made it to the final round of the competition during Wednesday night's episode.

Read the full story by Bill Addison.

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This week, Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews two new burger joints in Fort Worth: Dutch's Hamburgers from chef Grady Spears and Pappas Burger, which gets its ground meat from its sibling restaurant Pappas Bros. Steakhouse. Bill also takes a first look at Fearing's in his Diner's Notebook column (Fearing's starred review will be published later in the fall).

Also reviewed this week are Arlington's Cacharel and Plano's Shandiz Mediterranean Grill and Market.

Do you agree? Disagree? Leave a comment below.

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The San Diego-based buffet chain Sweet Tomatoes is set to open its first Dallas-area location Oct. 15 at 15225 Montfort Dr. in Addison, east of the Dallas North Tollway and across from Prestonwood Town Center. It will be open daily for lunch and dinner, serving a rotating menu of more than 100 dishes including salads, soups, pastas, muffins and desserts. Sweet Tomatoes also will be open on Sundays at 9 a.m. with a special breakfast menu.

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I was ecstatic to hear that my favorite barbecue joint, Hard Eight, had finally made a foray into the Metroplex, opening a restaurant in Coppell. Before I could make a visit, reviewer Kim Harwell awarded them a single star -- "generally disappointing" in the lingo of the star system.

This was not good news. For my money ($8.99 a pound, to be exact), the original location in Stephenville consistently turns out the best ribs in the state. Last weekend I needed a rib fix, and we decided not to take any chances: We would head for Stephenville. Before we left, my sister the bullriding fan called to remind me to be on the lookout for Ty Murray, whose ranch is near Stephenville.

We didn't see Ty, but the ribs were worth every one of the 253 miles we drove that day. I ordered five -- hey, the guy was slicing from the short end of the rack -- but wisely stashed one in a to-go container. The ribs, coated in coarse black pepper, were textbook: smoky, meaty and moist, not fatty. The bones slid right out as I picked each one up.

I've been to the Brady location a few times and it's never quite up to the Stephenville spot.

Tell us: Have you been to any of the Hard Eight locations, and how was the food? Where else do you go for ribs?

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Parents, take note: If your young daughter is already a fan of the American Girl books and dolls, you can expect a trip to the Galleria in the near future.

That's because Nov. 3 and 4 will mark the grand opening of Dallas' own American Girl shop. It's not an American Girl Place store, like the ones in Los Angeles, Chicago and New York. No, it's something new: an American Girl Boutique and Bistro, like the first one that opened a month ago in Atlanta.

What's the difference between the two concepts? The company says the Boutique and Bistro store in Dallas will have "a smaller footprint" than their flagship American Girl Place stores -- 20,000 square feet, compared to 40,000. But the Boutique and Bistro will dedicate more of its space to party rooms.

The "Bistro" part caught our eye. There will be prix-fixe "Create Your Plate" lunches and dinners offered at $14.50, plus tax, per person, for an appetizer, main dish and sides. (In Atlanta, these same meals cost a dollar less, we note. What's that all about?)

Brunch on Saturdays and holidays will be $13.50, plus tax, per person. (Also a buck cheaper in Atlanta. Ahem.)

The menus aim for a healthy variety of foods, including salmon and salads, though there also are burgers and curly fries, natch. There will also be a dessert counter. And smaller portions will be available for younger children.

Party and bistro reservations for American Girl's Dallas location are already being accepted: 1-888-777-0010.

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So, here's the latest on the roster of new eateries coming to chic One Arts Plaza downtown.

Austin-based Jorge's will open a Mexican food restaurant on the far east side.

Turning left and looking around the ground-floor circle drive in our minds, we'll also have Screen Door upscale comfort food, Tei An for soba noodles, Praeda nightclub and lounge and Dali Wine Cellar.

Look for late November, early December openings pending construction.

Rockin' photo by Courtney Perry

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I had a chat last night with Dallas chef royalty Stephan Pyles (left) looking tan and fit at a party for Museum Tower downtown. (Clearly, life is good these days betweens his hot namesake restaurant around the corner and a slew of high-profile consulting gigs).

Pyles told me he would not be opening a restaurant inside Museum Tower, but as its official "Culinary Ambassador" he will oversee a fresh market on site and the development of a pantry stocked with upscale prepackaged meals. (Now that's our kind of take -out).

Another Tower perk is that Pyles will help residents design their perfect kitchen.

What would this chef's own dream set-up be? "I would start by knocking-down three bedrooms to free up more space," he jokes. Or is he? And, of course, "the stove has to be gas."

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Metro colleague Holly Hacker reports that the Belmont Hotel has opened its long-awaited eatery, the Cliff Cafe. Last Friday evening was the kickoff.

I'm really eager to try this one, since the Belmont's very cool bar has always served excellent bar food as well as good drinks. Stephen DeSandro is executive chef, with Douglas Brown (of Amuse) as concept chef.

The Cliff Cafe is open daily, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as weekend brunch from 6 a.m. to 5 p.m. The menus offer vegetarian dishes as well as plenty of meat and fish, and prices look quite reasonable.

According to the Belmont's website:

In addition to 13 updated classic entrees, the dinner menu features a selection of salads, sandwiches, hamburgers and all-day breakfast, as well as an eclectic selection of affordable and unique New World wines.

Call the Belmont Hotel at 214-393-2300 for more information.

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Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Aló Cenaduria and Piqueos, the mostly small plates eatery from the owners of La Duni, and Billadelphia's in Bedford, which – as you might get from the name – specializes in Philly cheesesteaks. The other two new reviews are updates of old favorites: Javier's Gourmet Mexicano and Chow Thai Pacific Rim.

Do you agree? Disagree? Are you a card-carrying member of the Cult of Javier's? Leave a comment below.

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I chatted with Fuse chef Blaine Staniford last week at the Mosaic building downtown where he will open Scene in Dec.

This is one busy guy. Staniford says he is working on an eatery for the new View Hotel going into the former Marriott building on South Akard. He'll call it Flight restaurant, playing off the idea of both wine and food flights, such as scallops served three ways, each with a different wine.

He's also developing an eatery with Hamilton Properties and the W Hotel peeps for a new project called Aloft Hotel downtown.

This chef's cookin' with fire.

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Sprinkles Cupcakes in Dallas is getting in the spirit of the Red River Rivalry.

For two days only -- Friday, Oct. 5 and Saturday, Oct. 6 -- you'll be able to buy a signature Longhorn Vanilla or Big Red Velvet cupcake, decorated in your team's colors.

Proceeds from the special cupcakes will be donated to Children's Medical Center in Dallas and to Children's Medical Research Institute at OU's Health Sciences Center.

Sprinkles is located at 4020 Villanova St. in the Plaza at Preston Center, the southeast quadrant of Preston Road and Northwest Highway.

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Chef Tim Love is serving up a special tasting menu, created during his victorious battle against Masaharu Morimoto on the Food Network’s Iron Chef America. He'll showcase it this fall as a prix-fixe dinner at his modern steakhouse, Duce, in Fort Worth.

The chile-centric Iron Chef menu will be offered Friday and Saturday nights starting this weekend and will continue through October. The five-course dinner is $85 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Call 817-377-4400 for reservations, or see www.eatdrinkliveduce.com for more information.

The Iron Chef tasting menu includes:

Jalapeno Margarita
Chile Rubbed Bone Marrow and Sweet Peppers with Camp Bread
Roasted Poblano Chilies and Lobster Ravioli
Monk Fish Osso Bucco with Posole Stew
Surf 'n Turf with Tuna and Kobe Beef Tenderloin
Ancho Chile Chocolate Cake with Sweet Red Pepper Custard

(Photo courtesy the Food Network)

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Papas Bros. Steakhouse will introduce its new wine program manager tonight. Barbara Werley is a Master Sommelier, (the only one in town, Pappas says). Among many other posts she been the wine director for Caesars Palace in Las Vegas.

She's also a judge in The Dallas Morning News Wine Competition.

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When Highland Park Cafeteria reopened in Casa Linda Plaza earlier this summer, the big question everyone had was: "So where are the presidents?"

Because, for as long as we could remember, the serving line had always featured a lineup of framed presidential portraits. But now there was only an empty wall. We were told the new owners were trying to locate the original portraits, or failing that, copies or replacements.

Well, the presidents have now returned to HPC. Not the original portraits, but a new set. What's more, on an adjoining wall, there's now a lineup of smaller portraits: all of the first ladies, from Martha Washington to Laura Bush.

Good move, we say. As Abigail Adams admonished her husband, John Adams, when he was helping to create the United States in 1776: "Remember the ladies."

HPC UPDATE:

Watch for this story, coming from the DMN's Metro pages....

Metro reporter Michael E. Young has some hot news that's sure to cause some gossip in cafeteria circles:

Jeff Snoyer, the owner of the resurrected Highland Park Cafeteria at Casa Linda Plaza, already has plans to shut down the space he took over from the Casa Linda Cafeteria earlier this year.

But fans shouldn’t fret. He’s only moving the Highland Park Cafeteria across the parking lot, to the old two-story Bank One building on Bucker Boulevard and Losa Drive. And the relocation is still two years off.

“We’re trying to return to the original pattern of the cafeteria, where we own the building," he said. "That way, we can control costs and provide our people with better salaries and use the best ingredients to make everything better for our customers.

“We love this place, but this opportunity came along and we had to take it.” (9/21)

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Although the Ritz-Carlton Dallas and the adjoining Fearing's restaurant both began receiving guests a month ago, they saved their grand-opening splash for this weekend's culinary events, co-sponsored by Bon Appétit magazine.

It all started Friday night with a two-hour "progressive cocktails and small bites" reception at the Ritz, followed by a sold-out slate of Saturday activities. At 9 a.m. there was breakfast with Bon Appétit editor-in-chief Barbara Fairchild, chef Dean Fearing and Bon Appétit executive chef Cat Cora (the first woman to gain Iron Chef status on the hit Food Network show).

That was followed by a cooking class and luncheon with Dean, a "Decadent Desserts" class that was all about chocolate, a "Healthy Kids" class with Cat, and a "Tea and Sympathy" afternoon of spa pampering and makeup classes.

Dean was already a bit hoarse by mid-afternoon Saturday, so he had sous chef Eric Dreyer and mixologist Justin Beam do most of the talking for his session on making margaritas and guacamole (and smoked-chicken nachos and quesadillas, too). Dean was saving his voice for this evening's gala dinner. He and his friend and fellow chef Robert Del Grande will be performing with their band, the Barbwires, whose first CD, Bliss & Blisters, has just been released.

Dean also will be inducted into the Chef's Council of Chefs for Humanity, a coalition of celebrity chefs and culinary professionals working to battle hunger, provide community nutritional education and assistance, and supply humanitarian and emergency feeding relief.

Sunday brings two seatings for a champagne brunch, at 9:30 a.m. and 12 noon. Proceeds from all weekend events will benefit Chefs for Humanity.

Watch for further details on Monday, when we'll bring you photos and additional details on this weekend's events at the Ritz.

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Our colleague Michael Granberry sends us this tasty bit of news:

Rich Hicks, who lives in West Plano, is one successful cat. A few years ago, he helped launch Tin Star, which is expanding. By October, it will have a new location at Alpha Road and the Tollway, and by November, it will have a downtown Dallas presence in the Bank of America building. But such addition often involves subtraction. So, some diners may be less than thrilled that the original Tin Star, at the Quadrangle, closed Aug. 31. It will soon become Mooyah, the trendy new hamburger restaurant -– Hicks is one of its founder-owners as well — that is doing terrifically well in its only existing location on W. Park Boulevard in West Plano. Mooyah will open in the Quadrangle later in the fall. For fans of In-N-Out Burger, a California cult favorite, Mooyah will remind you of what you love.

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The worm turns for Mr. Dallas and The Club. DJ starts there tonight.

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Restaurant Critic Bill Addison reviews Abacus – yes, Top Chef fans, that is where former cheftestant Tre Wilcox is the chef de cuisine. Speaking of Tre, he'll be hosting a cooking class Monday at Central Market Dallas. Speaking of Bill, he has a new Diner's Notebook column this week, and it's about the trouble with truffle oil.

The Plano location of Scotty P's Hamburgers was reviewed this week, too.

Also new this week: Check out our fall food festival guide, and plan to fill the next couple of months with samples and festival foods.

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Tre Wilcox of Abacus, back from his turn on Top Chef, will create and share a dish based on the freshest seasonal ingredients available the night of class, stressing the importance of layering flavors, textures and colors. 6:30 to 9 p.m. Monday; $75. Central Market, Lovers Lane at Greenville Avenue; 214-361-5754.

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Luqa? Petrus? That whole Dallas Roof Garden thing? Here's what it is now.

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Pappas Pizza, at 4060 Belt Line Road in Addison, closed its doors yesterday.

“For as long as we were here, it’s been a tough spot for business,” said Judd Fruia, the restaurant’s general manager

The business started as Old Chicago pizza in 1995; The Pappas folks bought it and changed the name 5 years ago. Fruia said that all the employees, management included, are being given the option to transfer to another of the Metroplex’s many Pappas restaurants.

“The Pappas company may yet open another pizza restaurant in a family-suited neighborhood,” Fruia added.

Family-minded folks in the Fort Worth area might want to check out the newly opened Pappas Burger – look for a full review on that spot in the next few weeks …

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Mosey on over here for more about the opening of Lotus and the revamped Bar Milan at Bice.

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It's Hotel Elan -- according to job ads for the new Charlie Palmer restaurant that is opening in the downtown hotel. The Joule Urban Resort has been in the works forever, but since it recently changed management hands and got branded with a new moniker, things seem to finally be moving along. Charlie Palmer's new place is slated to open late October/early November.

Newshound Suzanne Marta spotted Palmer's Help Wanted ad on Craig's List. Among the positions they're hiring for? Butcher. I smell steak ...

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Vern's Place, the Deep Ellum soul food haven known for its short ribs and other down-home fare, may close, or at least have to find a new location. Scott Goldstein tells more about Vern's Place here.

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This week, our critics reviewed Afghan Grill, the restaurant inside Dallas House of Blues, the Cafe Brazil in Plano and Hard Eight BBQ in Coppell.

Do you agree with our reviews? Disagree? Leave us a comment.

Want to get the new reviews in your email inbox? Sign up for our restaurant newsletter here. It also includes wining and dining events, feature stories and new online content.

Posted by Shannon Sutlief at 4:12 AM | Permalink | Comments (6) | TrackBacks (0)

Seems there's some confusion surrounding a recent Starbucks that went in over at Mockingbird and 183.

Yes, this Starbucks has a drive-thru. No, it's not the one in back of the building with the vacuum tubes. That belongs to nearby Regions Bank. Hey, I agree it looks confusing.

Starbucks, 1103 Mockingbird Lane, 214-920-9530, www.starbucks.com

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Since taking over as chef of Cock & Bull, 25-year-old Hugh Stewart has done a complete overhaul of the Lakewood restaurant and bar’s menu. In fact, he’s done it more than once — the menu changes a few times a year to reflect the season.

Chef Stewart, who grew up in Las Colinas, arrived at Cock & Bull nearly a year ago after leading the kitchen at Jeroboam. He’s finishing up this fall’s menu, which is set to debut in early September. Here’s more from Stewart:

(Hugh Stewart, executive chef at Cock & Bull by NAN COULTER/Special Contributor)

Continue reading "Foie gras at a pub in Lakewood?" »

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It was SRO Thursday afternoon at Hector's on Henderson for the invitation-only viewing of a "sizzle reel" for what might turn into a TV gig for chef Blythe Beck. "The Naughty Kitchen" would follow the outspoken redhead as she goes about her business, be it shopping, chefing or just hanging out and having a good time. Or even making sudden, unexpected left turns while driving.

Restaurant owner Hector Garcia did his Naughty best to warm up the crowd by crooning Mack the Knife.

The clip itself was 7 minutes of hilarity with, natch, a few Naughty words thrown in. Let's just say Blythe is more of a cable kind of gal.

Photo of Blythe Beck by Kye R. Lee.

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Ferrari's Italian Villa in Addison now has a sister restaurant in Grapevine, open for lunch and dinner six days a week (closed Sunday).

Coming in a month: Flight, a new martini bar adjacent to the Grapevine restaurant, say owners Francesco and Jane Secchi.

The new Ferrari's is at 1200 William D. Tate in Grapevine. Call 817-251-2525 for more information.

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Efisio Farris -- who, with his brother, Francesco, started Pomodoro, then Arcodoro, then combined the two into Arcodoro and Pomodoro on Routh -- is the subject of a profile in Food & Wine magazine this month.

It's a snapshot of a visit to the house where his grandparents lived in his native Sardinia, with wonderful, lush descriptions of both the food, the surroundings and island's heritage.

Today, Efisio lives in Houston, where he runs an Arcodoro there. He has also written a cookbook, Sweet Myrtle and Bitter Honey, which will be published by Rizzoli in October.

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In more debut eatery news, Strong's Everyday Tavern offered a sneak peek yesterday of its new digs in the former Standard space on Fairmount St.

The concept is comfort food (think BBQ ribs) served in an upscale setting that eschews pretension. This is the latest concept from Chili's, Tia's and Red's Patio Grill founder Larry Lavine (along with biz partners Michael Share and Ben Mizell).

The team already has plans for additional Strong's locales in Grapevine and Fort Worth.

The Uptown locale opens to the public Sept. 4.

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Talk about an introduction. Here was the scene at last night's preview party for The Club inside the old Draelion space at The Centrum building.

Dallas restaurateur Robert Colombo (still riding high from his success with Trece on Travis St.) rolled out his sleek version of a "supper club" in old Hollywood style. A red carpet led to the mahogany front doors. Inside, even hair-straightening humidity from last night's storm couldn't dampen guests' spirits (not to mention the Ralph Lauren-chic decor).

More to come.

The Club opens to the public Sept. 4 at 3102 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-3100

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So, amidst the chaos at The Club last night, I had a chance to catch up with Gene Street (III Forks, founder of Black-Eyed Pea, etc., etc.). The eats guru says he's been busy with a steakhouse in Maui and also "working a deal" on something else, but keeping it on the down-low for now.

As for his spare time, Gene admits he's still not too old for some "light sinning."

You go, Gene.

L to R: Restaurateur Gene Street, Justice Molly Francis and boutique owner Eric Kimmel at The Club.

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One era ends and another begins.

The rumors are true: The Grape, a Lower Greenville Avenue institution since 1972, is being sold to Brian Luscher, who was executive chef there from 2001 to 2004.

The transaction will complete in October, also the 35th anniversary of The Grape's founding by Kathy McDaniel and Charlotte Parker. Styled after the intimate wine bistros of New York, it was Dallas' first restaurant with an eclectic blackboard menu, and its kitchen paved the way for many aspiring chefs and restaurateurs.

Patrons may see chef Luscher back at work perhaps by the end of September. His wife, Courtney (former GM of Dakota’s), will work the front of the house as The Grape's general manager.

"Courtney and I are both thrilled about coming back to The Grape,” says chef Luscher in the press release. “I have wonderful memories from the kitchen here, and it feels like we’ve come full circle.”

Expect more details to come...

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This week, the critics review Rick's Chophouse in McKinney, Highland Park Cafeteria in East Dallas, Olive Oil's Pizzeria in Richardson and Little Sichuan Cuisine.

Do you agree with our reviews? Disagree? Leave us a comment.

Also this weekend is the last chance for Restaurant Week. Let us know where you went and what you thought. Read other reader reviews here.

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Yesterday I tried to track down those rumors about Carrabba's locations closing, but it wasn't until this morning that I finally received the official word from Carrabba's HQ.

Carrabba’s Italian Grill has closed its Preston Center and Lakewood restaurants. According to Mike Herley, joint venture partner of Carrabba’s Italian Grill in the Dallas-Ft. Worth area, the decision to close is based on the changing dynamics within the commercial environment surrounding the restaurant.

“These locations are no longer conducive to operating our business here,” says Herley. “With five restaurants within 20 miles, it is a prudent business decision for us.”

“On behalf of all of us at the Carrabba’s Italian Grill, we want to express our appreciation to our loyal patrons in the Dallas-Ft. Worth area for their support and patronage over the past seven years,” Herley adds.

According to Herley, the company will work with each of the employees to re-locate them to one of the other company restaurants in the area. The North Dallas Tollway, Grapevine, East Plano, Rockwall and Hurst restaurants will remain open.

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Restaurateur Alberto Lombardi nixes the rumor that Cafe Toulouse, his popular Knox Street bistro, has closed its doors.

The current closure is a temporary one, and Toulouse will reopen tomorrow after what Mr. Lombardi terms an "end of summer cleaning," for some fresh paint and the installation of a new, non-skid floor in the kitchen. Colleen O'Hare, who ran the kitchen at the late lamented Green Room, is Toulouse's new chef and will be tweaking the fall menu.

Look for Mr. Lombardi's newest venture, La Cubanita, to open in about two months in the McKinney Avenue space that was long occupied by Chez Gerard. Mr. Lombardi just got back from Miami and a tour of its Cuban restaurants, to gather inspiration for the new eatery.

DMN file photo of Alberto Lombardi by Courtney Perry

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These tasty bits of restaurant-related news have surfaced since Friday:

Gordo's has closed its longtime Lovers Lane location, next to Highland Park High School's stadium, and sold off all the furnishings. It's expected to relocate in Preston Center at Luther Lane and Westchester, off Preston Road and just south of Northwest Highway.

Fireside Pies is opening its third location around mid-October. Look for it in the former Urban Bistro space on Inwood, just south of Lovers Lane and across from Inwood Village.

Grill on the Alley executive chef Daniel Winans is planning a monthly series of Napa Valley wine dinners, priced at $79.95 per person (plus tax and gratuity), starting Sept. 7. Call 214-459-1601 for information and reservations.

And Central 214's executive chef, Tom Fleming, has been named one of three national "Eggscellent" Chef Ambassadors by the American Egg Board.

Posted by Joyce Saenz Harris at 2:36 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

So this was cool, even for a bunch of semi-jaded food editors. Friday night we were having a progressive dinner in downtown Mpls. First stop for my group: Chambers Kitchen in the artfully cool Chambers hotel. (Take a few to check out the art.) The restaurant is a project of fab chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who has restaurants everywhere from New York's Central Park West, to Paris and Shanghai. So it didn't even occur to us the man might be on property.

Our dish was Sea Trout Sashimi Draped in Trout Eggs With Lemon, Dill & Horseradish. But we couldn't place the tiny crunchy bits nestled alongside the sashimi. A tablemate asked the hostess, and before we knew it Jean-Georges was at our table explaining: they were bits of trout skin, rolled, sliced and fried. He actually introduced himself first. As if!

Then he was off, although he did come back later to meet the rest of the group.

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