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February 27, 2008

Rehoboth Ranch salmon connection

Keeping things relative, Rehoboth Ranch patriarch Robert Hutchins of local pastured meats fame notes in his newsletter that his cousin and her family will be selling wild Alaskan salmon caught at Larsen Bay, Kodiak, at the Coppell Farmers Market when it opens in April.

Their catch includes whole Coho fillets (most around 1 1/2 pounds) and Sockeye half-fillets (most in 1/2 to 1 pound packages). All $10.99 a pound. If a few more bits of licensing fall into place, they may be taking orders before then. I'll keep you posted.

Contact info: Kathy Johnston at 972-849-1900 or samssalmon@yahoo.com.

Quick cannoli

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With a little smart shopping at Jimmy's Food Store, you can be cranking out cannoli in minutes. Perfect for your next Godfather viewing.

Wine of the week

EVANS CAGLAGE/Staff PhotographerAllegrini, Veronese IGT, Palazzo della Torre 2004, $19.49-$24.99

Wine has been a part of the Allegrini family for generations. Their vineyard, Palazzo della Torre, is a beautifully terraced home to the corvina, rondinella and sangiovese grapes used to make this gorgeous wine.

Part of the wine is made as usual, grapes straight to the fermenter, while a smaller portion of grapes are dried for three months then added to the fermented wine and refermented to add richness and flavor, a process called ripasso.

Layered red and black fruits with an intriguing breath of licorice are packaged in a rich, full-bodied wine that’s perfect for grilled meats or sausage. Widely available at wine stores.

Rebecca Murphy


Looking for more great wines? Check out our Dallas Morning News Wine Competition wine database for the best available.


February 26, 2008

Jimmy's Food Store closing?

Doesn't that question just make you gasp? It's the subject line in co-owner Paul DiCarlo's latest e-missive, followed by: "Only on Sundays." OK, we can all exhale now.

Starting March 23 (Easter), Jimmy's Food Store will be closed on Sundays. Hey, Paul, brother Mike, sister Mary and the crew work hard; they deserve one day off a week.

Meanwhile, Paul reports that chocolate Easter eggs are in. Get 'em while they last. Also, Jimmy's is going to give away a 22-pound chocolate Easter egg (mama mia, that's a lot of chocolate) in a drawing on March 22. Sign up now. Jimmy's is at 4901 Bryan at Fitzhugh.

February 25, 2008

Mochas and motorcycles

In case you missed it -- it was in the Business section, after all -- check out Chris Wienandt's story about Motopia Cafe, a combination coffee shop-motorcycle shop on Central south of Fitzhugh.
To borrow a line from the story: Where else can you drop in for a caramel hazelnut latte and get your motorbike serviced? Hardly anywhere, I'm thinking.

Sprouts, Market Street continue to grow

Maria Halkias looks at how Sprouts and Market Street have made inroads into the local supermarket scene. Of course, Wal-Mart continues to rule the market.

February 22, 2008

Blog with French recipes

angelica-fondant-recipe.jpgIf you love French food, take a look at the blog Tell Me How You Eat, which is written by Herve De Lamourier. He was born in France and grew up near Paris.

There are recipes in several categories, including French Diet and Romantic, and a big photo touts each dish. The grams are even converted into ounces and cups.

From Tarte Tatin With Champignons de Paris to Bread with Pears and Saint-Germain-Des-Prés Soup you'll be busy in the kitchen this weekend.

Shown above is Fondant Caramel et Angélique, or Garden Angelica Fondant, in the French Zen recipe category.

February 21, 2008

Floats in a bottle? Believe it...

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When it comes to combining ice cream and soft drinks, I'm strictly a Coke-float fan. But there are all kinds of float lovers out there: people who love root-beer floats, people who love orange-soda floats.

And it's for them that the folks at Sunkist and A&W have just created Floats -- creamy float-inspired sodas in old-fashioned, 11.5-ounce glass bottles.

Sunkist and A&W Floats can be found at major retail, grocery and convenience stores nationwide. Suggested retail: $1.79 per bottle, or $5.99 for a 4-pack.


Where to find fresh truffles in Dallas

Recently, a friend asked me where to buy fresh truffles in Dallas -- not the chocolate confections, but the pricey, fungal truffle.
They’re not easy to come by in this market unless you are a chef. It turns out that today Central Market Dallas scored a shipment of Chinese truffles, which they're selling for $199 per pound. That sounds like a fortune, but chances are you won’t use more than an ounce, which would set you back in the neighborhood of 13 bucks.
Shave half an ounce or so into scrambled eggs, mashed potatoes, polenta, pasta dishes and even potato salad, and you’ve got an indulgence worthy of a special occasion.
Like mushrooms, truffles should be stored in a cool dark, moisture-free environment to avoid getting moldy. They’ll keep for a few days wrapped in a paper towel and stored in a brown paper bag in the refrigerator.
Tina Danze

February 20, 2008

Wine of the week

EVANS CAGLAGE/Staff Photographer
Seven Hills, Red Mountain, Klipsun Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, $33.99

Klipsun Vineyard is on Red Mountain in eastern Washington, one of the state’s smallest official wine regions. Owners Patricia and David Gelles sell grapes to a selection of the state’s finest wineries, including Seven Hills.

Here, winemaker Casey McClellan has presided over the transformation of carefully tended, beautifully ripe grapes into a heady potion of concentrated blackberry and blueberry flavors spiced with a bit of vanilla and clove and juxtaposed with vivid acidity and polished tannins. Try it with a roast lamb or mushroom risotto.

Available at Farpointe Cellar.

Rebecca Murphy


Looking for more great cabs? Check out our Dallas Morning News Wine Competition wine database for the best available.

February 14, 2008

A change of plan for Whole Foods in Lakewood

Supermarket news o' the day:

Whole Foods Market won't be building a whole new store in Lakewood. Instead they will totally remodel the existing building, which used to be a Minyard's.

February 13, 2008

Take another little piece of my heart -- worms in V-day candy

The CBS TV station in New York City did a fun Valentine's Day story this week. The consumer reporter bought several bags of holiday chocolate. Most were visibly stale. But you MUST watch the video to see the one that had worms!!! Here's the link.

Your Intrepid Reporter (that would be me) decided to investigate the Valentine's Day candy in Dallas. I went to five places, bought candy from varous brands. How good was the local prepacked chocolate? Click here to read what I discovered.

Dress up store-bought treats for Valentine's Day

You don't have to be a master chef to put together a great Valentine's Day dessert. Here are ideas for dressing up a cake from the grocery store. And here's an idea for a chocolate brownie "martini" based on brownies from a coffee shop.

Want to get fancier? Our recipe database has more than 100 chocolaty desserts to try.

Like port but not

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Still in Valentine's mode here. Tick tock.

Kim Pierce reports that Ficklin Vineyards' Chocolate Passport and Raspberry Passport wines are so sweet and yummy they could double as dessert toppings.

Read more about Passport wines here, and find out who carries them in Dallas.

Valentine's Day is tomorrow

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Are you ready? If not, check out these last-minute ideas from the Taste section.

The Bundt cake shown is from Nothing Bundt Cakes, which has a location in Southlake.

February 12, 2008

Wine of the week

EVANS CAGLAGE/Staff PhotographerTwenty Bench, Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $16.94-$21.99

To make a Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon of this quality and price requires the insider knowledge of someone like winery owner and viticulturist Jim Regusci, who along with the company marketing team of James Harder and Jim Gill started Nine North Wine Company to search out great grapes or juice looking searching for a home.

From the rich and robust school of wine with layered black fruit and dash of anise sustained by savory acidity and unruffled tannins, Twenty Bench is equally at home with your best grilled steak or juicy burger.

Available at Goody Goody Liquor, Majestic Liquor Stores, Market Street and Whole Foods Market in Plano.

Rebecca Murphy

Looking for more great cabs? Check out our Dallas Morning News Wine Competition wine database for the best available.

Going nuts for Crazy Water

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Back in November, Janet St. James at WFAA-Channel 8 did a story on Mineral Wells' Crazy Water.

If you missed the story, and you're interested in learning more about Mineral Wells' best-known product, the folks at the Famous Mineral Water Co. say that Ch. 8 is scheduled to do a follow-up report on tonight's 10 p.m. newscast.

In Dallas, Crazy Water is available at all Whole Foods locations.

February 10, 2008

Early-morning bites from Central Market

This morning, my orbit included a stop at Central Market, and I found a few goodies of interest:

Varigated lemons: These are lemons whose flesh is vaguely pink. You can use them to make vaguely pink lemonade.

Coloseo lettuce: It's a cross whereby romaine stiffens the spine of iceberg to produce a crunchy, almost sweet lettuce that's perfect for wraps.

Biodynamic oranges: Biodynamics, which produces some very good wine grapes, is applied to citrus cultivation. I bought some, haven't cut into them yet. But it will be interesting to see if these farming methods that use moon cycles and other esoteric elements produce a tastier product.

Peeled, hard-boiled eggs: Eggland's Best introduces these, which are next to the fresh eggs at CM. 'Means you can turn out deviled eggs in a hurry.

P.S. I did cut into those oranges. They are incredibly juicy and sweet, with vivid orange flavor. Better than other oranges? I don't know about that, but they are really good.

February 8, 2008

Three-buck chuck at Wal-Mart

Maybe you already know this little tidbit: Wal-Mart is selling a California wine for $2.97a bottle. If you can believe the blogosphere on this one (and I think you probably can), the Oak Leaf Vineyards brand made in Ripon, Calif., is actually Gallo's way of dealing with a glut of grapes, not unlike Charles Shaw's two-buck-chuck of several years ago.

One of our spies found it on the shelves at the Wal-Mart Super Center on Garland Avenue in Garland. You can get California cab, a pinot grigio-chardonnay blend, chardonnay or merlot. Anybody had the chutzpah to buy one of these and taste it?

February 7, 2008

Doughmonkey returns!

doughmonkey.jpgI really hate those affected exclamation marks, but this is big news to Doughmonkey fans. The bakery has quietly, softly reopened its doors on Snider Plaza.

Today's "menu" includes Meyer lemon tarts, Fiji and Granny Smith apple pie, hot chocolate made with Valrhona Araguani chocolate, cayenne peanut brittle (and more) and of course chocolate-chip cookies. It at 6708 Snider Plaza, open 10 a.m. to 5ish p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

February 6, 2008

The best appliances

In the market for a gift? (It's OK if it's a gift to yourself.) Food & Wine magazine put 76 appliances to the test to choose the best in everything from deep-fryers to rice-cookers. See the results here.

February 5, 2008

Two 2005 Bordeaux bargains

Sigel's just sent an e-blast on two hot 2005 Bordeaux featured in an upcoming Wine Spectator . These won't be in its stores long:

Château Puygueraud Côtes de Francs 2005 $19.99
“Shows lovely black currant, floral and black licorice notes. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a tight bead of fruit and mineral throughout. Long finish. “ 92 - The Wine Spectator Advance (3/31/08)

Château Caronne-Ste.-Gemme Haut-Médoc 2005 $17.99
“Offers raisin and dried fruit, with very ripe fruit aromas and coffee and oak undertones. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long finish. It’s pumped up, but I like the flamboyant character.” 91 - The Wine Spectator Advance (3/31/08)

Want more wine finds? Check out our database from the Dallas Morning News Wine Competition.

February 3, 2008

Cuban sandwiches: Which bakery has the perfect bread?

La Cubanita's Cuban SandwichLast week in Quick, staff writer Suzanne Marta offered a roundup of places to get Cuban sandwiches, including Grand Met at the airport's Grand Hyatt DFW, Jimmy's Food Store in Old East Dallas and the recently opened La Cubanita (whose dish is pictured at left).

Of La Cubanita, she wrote: "But Cuban sandwich lovers tell you the real secret is in the bread. The folks at La Cubanita tried three dozen types before finding one from a Cuban bakery in North Dallas." The thing is the folks at La Cubanita aren't talking about which bakery they use, and some curious Eatsians are dying to know. Can you help us? Leave a comment below, or email me if you wish to protect your identity (I promise not to snitch -- cross my heart, hope to die, etc).

February 2, 2008

Texas Olive Ranch oil of the gods

The drum is set up. The pump works. And Texas Olive Ranch olive oil, the freshest olive oil you can buy in Dallas, is on sale at FM1410. The stuff is so murky you'd think it contained moss, and the aroma wafts up from the spigot as you fill your bottle (BYOB).

I finally stuck my pinky in it to taste, and oh my god. Jim Henry's first commerical Texas crop is outrageously good, with a firm pepper bite, a hint of bitter midpalate, and big, vivid olive flavor throughout, with a finish that seemed like it would never end. It's too bad tomatoes are out of season beause this would make an unbelievably good Caprese salad. As it is, I bought some eggplant and will figure something to do with that.

It's $15 a quart, $8 a pint. FM1410 is at 1410 Fitzhugh near Bryan. Store hours are Monday-SAturday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. , Sunday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

February 1, 2008

Texas olive oil: Wait, it's slow food

'Turns out that Spiceman's e-mail didn't mean the Texas Olive Ranch's oil would be at his FM 1410 storefront by the opening of the business day on Friday.

He meant that it arrives today. Sometime. From South Texas. Then he has to figure out how to get the 55-gallon drum off olive-grower Jim Henry's truck and set it up with a working pump. Only then will the oil will be ready for prime time.

What's a fan to do? You could just wait until tomorrow to go by the store. Or you could call first to be sure it's there before you make a special trip. The store is at 1410 Fitzhugh near Bryan (and Jimmy's Food Store). The phone is 214-828-0322.

January 31, 2008

Davis Mountains Organic Beef going out of business

What a bummer to report that 4-year-old Davis Mountains Organic Beef, which raises 100 percent organic cattle, is going out of business. The e-mail notice says they will be closing their doors at the end of February, and they're cutting prices to close out their inventory:

"In an effort to sell what we have left, we have discounted our ground beef, roasts and steaks up to 85 percent off. ... If you would like to purchase any of our beef, please place your order before the last week of February. Once an item is sold out, if will be removed from our Web site." You can order online at www.davismountainsorganicbeef.com or by phone at 1-877-366-2333.

I've got calls in to see if I can find out more about why they're shuttering the business. I'll keep you posted.

Texas Olive Ranch's first harvest on tap at Spiceman's

I just got off the phone with Jim Henry, one of the state's serious olive growers, and he confirms that Tom Spicer has persuaded him to part with some of his unfiltered 2007 Texas Olive Ranch extra-virgin olive oil.

"Basically, it's our first commerical crop," says Henry, who does high-tech olive farming near Carrizo Springs (puh-lease don't spell it Carizzo). Southwest of San Antonio and not too far from Nuevo Laredo, he's got 40,000 Arbequina trees, which he planted three years ago.

All you have to do is wait till Friday. As Spicer puts it in his e-mail, he "managed to knock a 55-gallon drum loose" from Henry's limited pressing of 2,000 gallons.

In about a month, Henry expects to have a Web site up and running (www.texasoliveranch.com), where you'll be able to buy his olive oil bottled online. He's also looking for recipes that feature olive oil for a Texas Olive Ranch Cookbook. If you'd like to contribute, email your recipe.

I don't know the price yet at Spiceman's, and you have to bring your own bottle. And if you try to get there first - I bet it goes fast - don't think you'll elbow your way in front of me. FM1410 (on Fitzhugh near Bryan) opens at 10 a.m.

January 30, 2008

Pick a Red Angelo pear

Central Market Dallas has all its pears lined up in the produce section, and smack in the middle is something called a Red Angelo pear. It's a cross, the produce department tells me, between a Forelle and a Red Sensation (although I think the sign said something different, a Forelle and something else). Further, when you bag and weigh, it comes up as a Red Silk pear.

Yada, yada, yada. Whatever you call it, it's a superb little piece of fruit, thin-skinned with a beautiful red exterior and sweet, intense, creamy-crisp flesh. And just $1.49 a pound.

The creative cook could turn this into a terrific Valentine's Day dessert, especially since rain in strawberry-growing areas is putting a little damper on that traditional fruit. Red Angelos are a Central Market exclusive.

January 25, 2008

Michael Pollan: 'In Defense of Food'

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If you enjoyed Michael Pollan's The Omnivore's Dilemma, check out his new book, In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto (Penguin, $21.95).

Of it, Publishers Weekly says:

Examining the question of what to eat from the perspective of health, this powerfully argued, thoroughly researched and elegant manifesto cuts straight to the chase with a maxim that is deceptively simple: "Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants."

January 22, 2008

The fig balls are in! The fig balls are in!

FINALLY, the Calabrian fig-leaf-wrapped roasted figs are in at Flavors From Afar. And finally, the Snider Plaza store will have its festa Saturday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Besides the fig balls, Nancy and Gary Krabill will have some 50 other new items to shop and/or to taste, all from the same shipment that was delayed from leaving Italy, then held at the port of New York long after the Christmas shopping season for which it was intended. Fortunately, this stuff is wonderful any time of year. All free. 6712 Snider Plaza.

January 20, 2008

CM takes a trip down Kerbey Lane

kerbey%20lane.jpgAn Austin ex-pat called to alert me that he'd seen Kerbey Lane Cafe pancake mixes on the sheves at Central Market.

Beathlessly he described the quirky 24-hour Austin institution and how its recipe for apple-wheat pancakes had even appeared in the Austin American Statesman, "but they never came out right when you made them, no matter hard you tried."

Now, all he needs to do is open a bag and follow the directions. CM's got the apple-wheat (pictured), pumpkin pancake mix and gingerbread pancake mix. They're $5.79, a price you can't beat online.

January 19, 2008

Great reading to keep you warm

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When I picked up the newly published Secret Ingredients: The New Yorker Book of Food and Drink, the first thing I did was comb the table of contents for an essay called “The Fruit Detective” by John Seabrook. There it was, tucked appropriately under the subcategory of “Fishing and Foraging.” It’s one of my favorite pieces of food writing (heck, writing in general), a literally pithy profile of an eccentric former heroin junkie, David Karp, who became one of the country's foremost experts on fruit.

You can find the Karp piece on the Internet, but that’s not true for most of the literary sparklers in this 583-page collection. So many of the great voices of food writing (and the greatest subject matters) of the last century are here, including M.F.K. Fisher, A.J. Liebling, Calvin Trillin, Bill Buford, Jim Harrison and Anthony Bourdain (with the essay that launched Kitchen Confidential). I won’t ramble: If you like food and you like good writing, just go get this book.

January 18, 2008

Sprouts is open in Frisco

I hear Sprouts Farmers Market, at Preston and Lebanon in Frisco, is open. I'm planning to head there tonight to stock up on fresh produce. Anybody else been? What do you think?

And now, the memoirs of a chef-turned-dominatrix...

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Yeah, that headline caught your eye, didn't it? Not very often that we get the chance to use "dominatrix" in the Eats blog.

But we are not making this up. Canadian-born chef Susan Winemaker has just published her first book, Concertina: An Erotic Memoir of Extravagant Tastes and Extreme Desires (St. Martin's, $25.95). It is, shall we say, not for the easily offended... so if that describes you, please stop reading here.

Continue reading "And now, the memoirs of a chef-turned-dominatrix..." »

January 17, 2008

Scovies: For those who like it hot

The winners of this year's Scovie awards, for the best and hottest in hot foods, have been announced.
Grab your credit card, because the list includes links to many of the product web sites.
Want to try a bunch of the winning foods? Make plans to hit the Fiery Foods & Barbecue Show Feb. 29 through March 2 in Albuquerque.
(Tip: Habanero-stuffed olives look a LOT like pimento-stuffed olives. You have been warned.)

January 16, 2008

Bacon? In a chocolate bar?

Yes, says Kim Pierce. Read about it here.

You'll either love it or hate it.

January 15, 2008

Tolbert's Chili: coming to a freezer case near you

The ink is not quite dry on this deal, but X2 (Frank X. Tolbert, artist-son of the famous Bowl of Red writer and Terlingua cook-off instigator), with help from Susie Priore (most recently of Iris), is in the process of bringing an organic version of his father's famous chili to Whole Foods Market, where it will be sold in 16-ounce tubs in the freezer case.

Adds she: "It will be ready to eat and doctor up as one sees fit. Personally, I like to put shredded cheese, onions and a few jalapenos on top, and then throw it all over a bowl of rice." Priore says they hope to have it in stores by the end of the month. I'll keep you posted.

PickleSickle popsicles?

I got a press release for pickle juice popsicles recently. According to the press release, PickleSickles are made "not from just the brine left over from pickling, but from freshly squeezed pickles, much like an apple or orange is pressed." A roller rink owner in Seguin came up with the name and sells them at his rink. It also says you can buy 'em at Central Market.

January 10, 2008

What to do with those red currants?

red%20currant%20sauce.jpgFor years, I've passed them, curious, on the produce aisles at places like Central Market and Whole Foods Market, little half-pint plastic containers of brilliantly red, round currants. Finally this week, I bought some.

You can't eat them raw. Too tart. So I turned to my food-writer friends in Great Britain, who have often waxed wistfully about their love for currants (black and red). One suggested I could make the world's tiniest batch of jam. Another told of a wonderful recipe that drizzles the puree over custard in a pie shell. They also freeze well, right on the stem, one said, and I might want to save them for summer.

But from all these ideas, two things were clear: They must be cooked and sweetened, like cranberries, and they must be strained. Now what?

That's my red currant sauce over bananas.
Photo by IWG

Continue reading "What to do with those red currants?" »

Whole lotta salsa

Sandy Korem of Festive Kitchen reports that they sold nearly 3 TONS of their much-loved Cranberry Salsa over the holidays.

Up next for Valentine's Day: Red Velvet Cupcakes with Chunky Oreo Vanilla Buttercream Icing.

The Argentinean wine thing

Even if you don't buy a thing, you can still have fun tasting a selection of Argentinean wines Saturday from noon to 7 p.m. at the new City Cafe Gourmet Food & Wine To Go, part of the City Cafe troika on Lovers Lane just west of the tollway. The point is a sale: Get a 10 percent discount on any six bottles from Argentina. And yes, you can mix and match. The tasting part is free, of course.

Not edible art, but art of edibles

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Looking for a special, original painting -- or a food-centric grouping -- to grace your kitchen or dining room? Check out the work of Texas artist Thaw Malin III.

Mr. Malin's still lifes of fruits and vegetables are full of robust color. He also paints beautiful florals and landscapes, as well as seascapes (he spends summers on Martha's Vineyard). Most of his paintings are small oils on canvas, 6 by 8 inches.

His work (such as Seven Peppers, seen above left) is regularly sold on eBay and on his own website.

January 8, 2008

Fresh regional spinach at Central Market

I just returned from a shopping orbit and ran across my favorite fresh spinach at Central Market: tight-packed little 10-ounce "triple-washed" bags from Oak Hill Farms in Poteet, Texas. That's south of San Antonio, where a lot of the state's spinach is grown. It's always fresh, even though the leaves are all wrinkled up. (Who cares? You're going to cook it anyway.) At my house, the 10 ounces makes about one serving with enough leftover for a spinach-and-Greek-yogurt omelet in the morning. Yum.

January 7, 2008

Goodbye to Postum

The other day when I was in Central Market, I noticed they had Postum on the shelf. But not for much longer, apparently.

If you're a fan of the venerable non-caffeinated drink, a longtime coffee substitute, you'd better stock up. Our friends on the Religion blog say that Postum is being discontinued after more than 100 years of production.

January 6, 2008

Zituna World Food Market up close and personal

Word on the street was right: This place rocks. Zituna World Food Market has been undergoing a soft opening since Dec. 15; in fact, stock is still arriving each day, according to the manager.

In many ways, it's like any modern grocery store, with big, colorful signage on the walls to designate dairy, meats, etc., and pristine deli, dairy and frozen cases. But here the emphasis is Middle Eastern, Persian and Balkan-Russian, with more Indian specialties on the way.

Some items are totally off the wall for our world, such as bottles of Russian KBAC cola. And some make Middle Eastern food easier to prepare at home, like the zatar seasoning mix available in bulk.

Continue reading "Zituna World Food Market up close and personal" »

January 5, 2008

Spiceman's alternative greens

If your green salads are experiencing the winter blahs (like mine are), Tom Spicer has a couple of cool items at his FM 1410 to perk them up. One is farmed winter arugula from Navarro County. I like the sometimes intense spiciness of locally grown arugula, especially played against milder greens like romaine and frissee (supply highly variable right now). He also has several kinds of microgreens, which add intensity to green salads. Besides an Asian mix and a rainbow mix, you might want to try chervil and cilantro.

Speaking of salads, I noticed something new at Whole Foods Market in the produce section: vacuum-packed artichoke hearts, plain or seasoned. What to do with them? Besides adding to salads, one shopper said she was going to put them on top of her salmon. Good idea.

January 4, 2008

CM's 'Hatch Chile Pepper Recipe Book'

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OK, we know it's kind of goofy. But we can't help liking Central Market's new book, because it just makes us smile.

The First Ever Un-Edited & Un-Tested Hatch Chile Pepper Recipe Book ($14.99 at Central Market stores) contains hundreds of recipes that are printed just as they were submitted -- most were handwritten, though some are typed -- on contest-entry forms by CM's customers.

Thus they are, as the inside front cover says, "Un-Tested! Un-Edited! Probably Delicious!" That's gotta be our favorite disclaimer of this young year.

So what if that cavalier attitude makes it the anti-Cook's Illustrated? This homey little volume stands in the proud tradition of every church cookbook ever published. It goes them a step better, in fact; we're not sure we've ever seen a church cookbook that reproduced the contributors' original handwritten submissions.

Continue reading "CM's 'Hatch Chile Pepper Recipe Book'" »

Zituna World Food Market: Have you been?

I just saw on the Slow Food Dallas blog that Zituna has opened in Richardson at the corner of Coit and Arapaho (southeast corner). The new specialty grocery store covers Middle Eastern, Greek, Persian and Eastern European, and the blogger likened it to the late, lamented Worldwide Foods on Lower Greenville. If you've been by, I'd love to hear what you think. I'm going to try and get there this weekend.

Berkshire pork goes local

Rehoboth Ranch is swtiching this year to the heritage Berkshire breed for its free-range, organic pork. This is a big deal, since Berkshire is considered the pork equivalent of Kobe beef.

Starting in the fall, you'll be able to buy it at Texas Meats at the Dallas Farmers Market, the Coppell and McKinney Farmers Markets, at the Greenville ranch and at designated drop-off locations. And you'll be seeing it on local menus, too. Area chefs are the ones who persuaded the Hutchins family to change.

Rehoboth also produces organic free-range chicken, beef and eggs, with its lamb coming from an Oklahoma producer.

January 3, 2008

City Cafe: And then there were three

First there was City Cafe (1985). Then there was City Cafe To Go next door. Now there's City Cafe Gourmet & Wine To Go next door to that.

Probably the owners should flop the name and call it City Cafe Wine & Gourmet, as wine takes up the greater part of the store. It's a nice, compact selection of mostly under $20 bottles from smaller producers, such as locally imported Lorca 2006 Fantasia from Argentina made from the torrontes grape. But there's more.

Continue reading "City Cafe: And then there were three" »

Martha Stewart's Wedding Cakes

I try not to gush too much in public over items from the Martha Stewart empire. But Martha Stewart's Wedding Cakes is a flat-out stunner.
Not in the market for a wedding cake? Doesn't matter. Even a guy in our office who thinks this would be a swell wedding was hooked within 5 minutes.
The book is packed with incredible feats of fondant and precious piping. Some cakes, like the seven-layer coconut, are elegant in their simplicity. But others are show-stoppers, like an eyelet cake, each layer a different eyelet design in fondant; a damask cake, with intricate piped scrollwork; and a truffle cake covered with 300 homemade truffles, each cut in half.
Brides will be giddy and bakers scared. Check it out.

December 28, 2007

Lobster, caviar and foie gras, oh my

lobsterThinking of ringing in the new year with a splurge of luxury to go with that bubbly?

TJ's Seafood Market has both caviar and lobster at the ready. And you'll be surprised to discover who has a great duck foie gras.

TJ's caviar selections include wild osetra ($280/ounce), Russian farm-raised osetra ($150/ounce), wild American sturgeon ($50/ounce) and, for the rest of us, red salmon roe ($35/8 ounces).

Continue reading "Lobster, caviar and foie gras, oh my" »

Try some champagne

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Everybody is gearing up for New Year's. Get in practice with one of these tastings:
FREE FOR ALL: Brut uncorks several sparklers so you can taste before you buy, 5 to 7 p.m. Fridays; free. 5330 E. Mockingbird Lane (Palomar Hotel); 214-827-2788.
SIPPIN' SATURDAY: La Buena Vida Vineyards will have live entertainment to go with tastings, ranging from $6.50 to $9, Saturday 2 to 5 p.m. 416 E. College St., Grapevine; 817-481-9563.
POP THE CORK: Tivoli Wines offers samples of sparklers, from bargain-priced to luxe, noon to 4 p.m. Saturday; free. 62 Main St., Colleyville; 817-581-9463.
And of course, don't overlook our tasting panel's recommendations.

Photo by Evans Caglage

December 27, 2007

The Saveur 100

Chopped liver. Tomato aspic. Roasted duck. GooGoo Clusters. Turmeric. What do they have in common? They all made the Saveur 100, the annual list of things that caught the fancy of the magazine's staff. Read the whole Saveur 100 here, or grab the January issue.

December 26, 2007

Love those Mint M&Ms

My favorite thing about the day after Christmas is half-price Mint M&Ms at Target. That was me piling 14 bags in my cart this morning, at $1.39 per bag. (My sister called last night with an order for 8 or 10 bags, so as you can see, my stash is practically gone already.)
I'm always amazed that there isn't more of a scramble for these babies. While other early-morning shoppers were angling for half-price gift bags and ornaments, I calmly shoveled the M&Ms into my cart, undisturbed. (And I do mean angling; one woman used her cart to block other shoppers' access to the ornaments. She's going on the Naughty list.)
Do people not know about Mint M&Ms? Not like them? At the rate they were going, you can probably still snag some today.

December 22, 2007

Cooking with Messina Hof

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Paul and Merrill Bonarrigo, the affable proprietors of Messina Hof winery in Bryan, have written Vineyard Cuisine, with favorite recipes and wine pairing-tips. Get a recipe from Vineyard Cuisine here.

The festa must go on at Flavors From Afar

Nancy and Gary Krabill at Flavors From Afar want folks to know that the festa will go on despite the fact the ship with all the Italian goodies remains stuck in the New York City port. They are assured that the goods will arrive in Dallas during the first of January.

Be advised, they say, that there will still be tastings galore today at the store (including the fabled fig balls) and gift cards with stories on the producers to take home. "In honor of this trip taking longer than Columbus, we're calling the gift cards the Nina ($25), the Pinta ($50) and the Santa Maria ($75)," they say. The shop's at 6712 Snider Plaza.

December 21, 2007

A marshmallow world

Have a Martha Moment on Saturday. Chef John O'Neil will be at It’s A Grind Coffee House in Plano from 1 to 3 p.m. making homemade peppermint marshmallows using the peppermint syrup available at the coffee house. Cap it off with hot cocoa with a homemade marshmallow on top. 4152 W. Spring Creek Pkwy. (at Coit), Plano.

December 19, 2007

Central Market's raw bar

File this under "Why didn't someone thinkof this sooner"? Instead of offering just a bunch of pre-cut veggies in aribtrary package sizes that may or may not fit your needs, Dallas Central Market has a raw bar in the produce department with more than two dozen kinds of pre-cut veggies.

When I was there recently, it was 28, from butternut squash to onions, multi-colored bell peppers to asparagus. The items are freshened several times a day, and the price is $3.99 a pound. Not bad if you're pressed for time and don't have a sous chef.

It's also time to pick up your 2008 Hunger & Thirst calendar, which Central Market produces to benefit the North Texas Food Bank. This year, the photos are like food pin-ups: voluptuous, sensual and inviting, from French onion soup to peaches and ice cream. Each purchase of a calendar for $10 provides 50 meals for hungry North Texans. But where are these recipes for the pin-up dishes?

Mary of Puddin Hill's fiery snowballs

I warned my pal John that the fiery Texas snowball was kind of hot. It's a slow heat, a habanero burn. Just when you think you've finished the nugget unscathed, it grabs the back of your throat, and by then it's too late. Which is why he had to run for water. Good times.
The fiery snowball is the zesty relative of Mary of Puddin Hill's snowballs, which are descended from its amazing praline pecan pie. Think pecan pie but thicker, wrapped in dark chocolate.
The heat level of the fiery snowballs varies, but they're hot enough that it would not be in the holiday spirit to offer them to guests without a heads-up.
Any of these would make excellent gifts. The company, which is based in Greenville, Texas, also makes a wickedly addictive habanero brittle and a jalapeno brittle.

Get goosed

The December issue of Olive magazine can't get enough of goose-fat roasties -- potatoes roasted in a veil of goose fat. It's a British thing, y'all. There's a recipe, and ads for frozen roasties, and writers rhapsodizing about their holiday roasties.

The whole goose thing is not such a deal here. But if you're set on trying it, check out the offering at Eat The World in Lake Highlands: goose with your choice of two stuffings, $75. (They also carry excellent tamales and lots of other temptations.)

And if it's the magazine you're craving, you can buy a subscription to Olive on Amazon for $168.08. Or do what I do -- grab it every month at Barnes & Noble for about $9. It's still not cheap, but $168 for a mag subscription is a bit painful.

December 18, 2007

Top clicks of 2007

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Here's a shout-out to chef Richard Chamberlain, who helped make the "How to make the best steak you can" package our most-clicked food story of 2007.
The rest of the top 10 is pretty evenly divided between desserts and more meat, plus down-home faves like Frito pie and tortilla soup.
And clearly there is no stopping the Neiman Marcus cookie hoax; it's only gained new life on the Internet. (We've got the real thing.)
See the top recipes of 2007 here.

Food prices: going up

Not-good news from Karen Robinson-Jacobs in Business: Cooking at home is going to cost more next year. Prices are going up on anything made with wheat and soybean oil.

Cake in a jar

You either love it or you don't. A lot of people do. We're talking cake in a jar, a clever homemade treat that can be as homespun or high-end as you please.

Cake in a jar is a good last-minute holiday offering. You've probably got jars and most of the ingredients on hand.

Hallmark magazine has several recipes for cake in a jar on its web site.

Check out more mixes in a jar from our archives here.

Happy layering.

Food Ts for the foodie

The deadline for getting these shipped before Christmas is Thursday, but they would make a perfect gift anytime: food-themed T-shirts, totes, aprons and sweatshirts, from size 6-month onesies to men's, from FoodTee by DietDetective.com.

Each one has a food image - eggplant, cherries, watermelon - and a simple message. There are 30 designs in all, and 18 are new, if you're already hip to the site.

I love the celery image ("stalker") and cauliflower ("flower child"), but also a half kiwi ("juicy") and a watermelon slice ("the pits"). My favorite might be the chocolate-covered donut ("think before you eat"). Prices range from $20 to $29. A shoutout to registered dietitian Robin Plotkin for turning us on to these.

December 17, 2007

Spotted at Whole Foods

On a recent orbit, I came across these cool items for the holidays:

Individual house-made fritattas that looked like little crustless quiches. Great for out-of-town company do-it-yourself breakfasts. Put them out with individual ciabattas from the bakery, locally produced Layla drinkable yogurt from the dairy case and juicy tangerines from the produce aisle, and voila! You've got it covered.

Local Milk - Yep, that's all it says on the label, which looks like it was printed on some guy's home Epson. It's still pasteurized (has to be), but it tastes more like raw milk. Nice over cereal.

Instant appetizer trays - I saw one with a Mexican theme and one for fried Asian dumplings, complete with sauces and condiments to serve probably four or so. They're on the prepared foods aisle.

Whiskey river runs dry for George Dickel No. 8

You may look high and low for George Dickel No. 8. But you're not likely to find any till after the first of the year. Tennessee's only other whiskey producer besides Jack Daniels tried to compensate for a glut in the 1990s and failed to accurately predict an uptick in demand, according to an Associated Press story in The New York Times.

The distillery stopped production from 1999 to 2003, trying to reduce inventory. Because No. 8 requires fives' aging, that means no inventory - zip, nada - till 2008. By the way, the story notes that George Dickel Whisky No. 8 omits the "e" because its founder "felt his brand had more in common with the finest smooth Scotch whiskies than the more rough-hewn American spirits."

No. 8 lovers will have to console themselves with Dickel's new Cascade Hollow Batch, aged less than three years. Or, horrors, choose another brand. Any whisk(e)y lovers have a better suggestion?

December 15, 2007

French artisanal cheeses at Sigel's

sigel%27s%20cheesesSigel's has just gotten a new shipment of its hand-made, small-production cheeses from France. Cheese-head friends who tasted these when they were first introduced a few months ago raved about them, and I plan to get by to check them out before this lot disappears.

There are sheep's milk cheeses, goat's milk cheeses and cow's milk cheeses, each reflective of its village and region.

Continue reading "French artisanal cheeses at Sigel's" »

December 14, 2007

'Pass the Plate' cookbook has celebrity-chef contributions

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Pass the Plate, the new cookbook from St. Michael and All Angels Episcopal Church, features about 400 recipes from parish families, as well as from several top Dallas chefs: Kent Rathbun, Stephan Pyles and Dean Fearing. Proceeds will benefit local non-profit organizations such as Bryan's House, Austin Street Shelter, Jubilee Park & Recreation Center, and the Central Dallas Food Pantry.

The cookbook is $29.95 and is available at the St. Michael's Women's Exchange shop, 5 Highland Park Village. Call 214-521-3862 for more information.

Where to buy bourbon in this town?

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Sorry to talk hard booze before lunchtime, gang, but I have a pressing question: Where's the best place in Dallas to buy top-shelf bourbon at a good price?

In the last couple weeks, both The New York Times and LA Times have written stories about bourbon's ascendance in popular culture, and included tasting panels offering suggestions in the articles. So, a few of us from the paper are getting together tonight to conduct our own tasting. I've yet to pick up my contribution. I'm looking for a place that has breadth of selection but isn't the highest-ticket alcohol boutique in town. Any thoughts?

Shopping at Texas Pecan

I finally made it over to Texas Pecan Co. Spent a lot of money in very little time. This is a tiny, no-frills shop that sells nuts, snack mixes and a few dried fruits in 8-ounce or 1-pound bags. Pecans also come in 5-pound bags (halves, $33.75) for the freezer or one big holiday baking binge.

Other finds: a pound of sweetened dried cherries, $7.50; a pound of hot and spicy peanuts for $2.50; and a pound of roasted and salted cashews for $4.95. Check the web site for other items and prices (as well as hours). It's a little off the beaten path but not really that hard to find. Parking can be dicey.

December 12, 2007

Single-estate Italian wine and olive oil

Where there are grapes, so also there often are olive trees, especially in the Mediterranean. Many wine estates bottle their own oil, but it often never makes it to The States because it falls 'twist and 'tween importers. Wine importers aren't set up to market olive oils, and food importers often don't want to take on a small-lot, single item.

Chateau Wine Market's Amier Taherzadeh has made the process easier locally by importing bottles of the artisanal olive oil along with the wines of four estates. For the food-and-wine geek that you love, it's a killer gift combination.

Continue reading "Single-estate Italian wine and olive oil" »

Roasted figs and other Italian goodies

Fig%20Ball.jpgTalk about s-l-o-w food. Nancy and Gary Krabill at Flavors From Afar have been waiting several months for the containers with their next shipment of goodies from Italy to leave their Italian ports. Now, the ships' arrival is imminent, and the Krabills plan a taste fest on Saturday, Dec. 22.

One of the items in the bowels of their container is these fig-leaf-wrapped balls in the Calabrian gentleman's hands (left). By chance, the Significant Other went shopping at Eataly in Torino not long ago (sort of a cross between Central Market and Slow Food, he sez) and brought some back with him, so I got a preview. Or should that be pre-bite?

Basically, figs are wrapped inside the leaves, then slow-roasted till the figs caramelize. They come out dehydrated yet still moist with the flavors and sugars concentrated. Each is a decadent mouthful by itself, but a little Gorgonzola or foie gras cranks up the indulgence. They're going to be $15.99 for 200 grams (that's about a 3- to 4-inch diameter ball) at Flavors From Afar, 6712 Snider Plaza. The Festival of Italian Taste is 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Dec. 22.

Black cherry wood at Dallas Farmers Market

This came in too late for today's Taste section, but market resource coordinator Tony Johns tells us a new vendor will be bringing black cherry cooking wood in various sizes to the market on Saturdays in Shed No.1. After the first of the year, he expects to have apple and sugar maple.

She also says there's a good chance we'll have some mustard and turnip greens from Panola County on Saturday under Shed No. 1. But, she cautions, before you make a special trip, call the market manager and be sure the item you're looking for will be there: 214-670-5879.

December 11, 2007

'Treats of Christmas' at NorthPark on Saturday

If you happen to be at NorthPark Center on Saturday, make a point of walking by Neiman Marcus, just to test your diet willpower.

Culinary instructor Steve Pilat and his students form the Art Institute of Dallas will be selling chef-made cakes, pies, cookies and other holiday sweets. All are donated by the Texas Chefs Association, and proceeds benefit the North Texas Food Bank's Operation Front Line.

December 10, 2007

Shelf help: New cookbooks

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If you're always wondering what you should bring to the potluck, Anne Byrn -- aka "The Cake Mix Doctor" -- has the answer. Her new What Can I Bring? Cookbook (Workman, $14.95) has more than 200 recipes that she promises are tasty and "easy to tote" -- she even has "Tote Notes" included with each dish.

Looking for a way to reduce saturated fats and increase your HDL cholesterol count...but finding it impossible to give up your holiday goodies? Use more olive oil -- yes, you can even use it in baking. Lisa A. Sheldon's recent Olive Oil Baking (Cumberland House, $19.95) presents healthier ways to make your cookies, cakes, biscotti and muffins.

Order now for the holidays

Two spots are gearing up for holiday orders now: Ain't No Mo' Buttercakes and Jimmy's Food Store.

Jimmy's does this every year, but in case you've forgotten, you can add a dash of Italian to the holidays with house-made lasagna, Italian sausage and meatballs as well as the DiCarlos' sister's cakes and cookies, which Mary Francis makes from family recipes. I think hers is the best Italian cream cake in Dallas. You can also reserve USDA prime tenderloins. Stop by at 4901 Bryan at Fitzhugh; 214-823-6180.

I stumbled upon Ain't No Mo' Buttercakes' Bundt cakes during a review of Brothers Chicken and have been singing their praises since. It's a decadently rich Bundt cake with lots of glaze choices; I really like the orange glaze on the basic butter Bundt. This is a young business, struggling to get established. It's Web site is www.aintnomobuttercakes.net, which tells you how to mail an order in with your check, as well as describing the various cakes; the phone number is 214-321-5350.

Sooner is better for both these places.

December 9, 2007

Spiceman's Louisana citrus and more

While you're making plans for holiday meals and gifts, don't forget FM1410, produce broker Tom Spicer's storefront at 1410 Fitzhugh.

He's got gift boxes of Louisiana citrus - Satsumas, Sunburst tangerines, Meyer lemons and kumquats - and no, he says, they're not organic, but "I know exactly where it's from, how it's grown and who's shipping it to me, not to mention how good it is."

Also for the foodie on your gift list: food posters , $18 each. It's always an adventure to see what Spiceman has in his store. Sometimes local gardeners with a harvest bounty come by and make a deal with him. So there's always new and interesting fresh stuff.

December 7, 2007

Another location for Paradise Bakery

Paradise Bakery (annoying music alert) recently opened in the former Storehouse Furniture space on Alpha Road, just north of the Galleria Dallas.
The California Turkey Sandwich is a pretty hearty lunch. Order it to go and eat half later. I could barely eat both halves of it.
Just try ordering something and not getting something sweet with it. Everything looks good — I liked the big, soft sugar cookies.
And the Alpha Road/Tollway store has a small sitting area in the back, with a TV. Perfect for those awaiting more-hardy Galleria hikers.
John Lose

Money for nuggets and Chick-fil-A's for free

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Each year since 1995, the Chick-fil-A cows (of "Eat Mor Chikin" fame) have starred on a calendar, and every year that calendar gets a little crazier.

The first few were pretty straightforward. Then came 1999's "Cows Around the World." Then 2000's "Cows in History." Then 2001's "Cows in Sports."

And so came 2004: "Cow Superheroes." 2005: "Secret Agent Cows." 2006: "Cows in Shining Armor." 2007: "The Good, the Bad, and the Hairy."

For 2008 it's "One-Hit Wonder Cows," with a Rolling Stone-like cover featuring a hair-metal rocker cow. Each month features a different music genre, so we have punk cows called Udder Chaos, a C&W cow called Junior Jr., a lounge crooner called Veal Medallion...you get the picture. Our favorite: the mariachi cow trio known as Los Leches.

The calendar is $5, and each page contains a monthly coupon for a free (or "free with purchase") Chick-fil-A product -- more than $30 worth of coupons over the course of a year. So all in all, not a bad deal.

If you like cows in white disco suits.

December 6, 2007

For fans of the big white cake

Every December, Southern Living puts a big white cake on its cover. One year it was coconut; another year it was a red velvet cake with peppermint. This year they've collected all the cake recipes on their web site.

December 5, 2007

Whole Foods' new Lakewood store...

...on the site of the now-closed Minyard's store at Gaston & Abrams, probably won't open till spring 2009, says Jeff Siegel at the East Dallas Advocate's Back Talk blog.

On that same train of thought: Does anyone out there know when Whole Foods' uber-mega-superstore at Park & Central is supposed to open? Seems like it's been in the works forever...

Tart comes to Plano for the baking-pressed

Just in time to rescue bakers or hosts caught on the short end of a holiday time crunch, Tart Pastry Boutique & Studio has opened a northern outpost at The Shops at Legacy.

Sisters Kristen Rahal and Stephanie Weibring opened their Lovers Lane store three years ago, where it became a quick success, thanks to the siblings' hip designs and signature style, which included lots of bright colors, polka dots and unsual shapes. The cup cake bar is also popular, especially with moms.

I haven't been to the new one yet - anybody been by? - but I hope they're making the repackaged mixes that let you do the finished assembly and baking at home. Also look for fruit tartlets, French macaroons, petites fours, chocolate mousse cups, terrific cookies and more.

It's at 7140 Bishop Road, suite F5; phone is 972-673-0446. Open Tuesday through Saturday. Closed Sunday-Monday.

Gifts for gourmets

Check out some cool kitchen gear for gourmet wannabes.

What's a Knork? A knife plus a fork

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From the Associated Press: The Knork is the sort of product whose name may prompt eye rolling. That is, until you realize just how helpful it can be.
Consider the Knork the spawn of the spork, that handy fast-food utensil that blends a fork and a spoon. The Knork goes the other way, blending a fork and a knife. Since most people often use the side of their fork to cut soft foods, it makes sense.
Here’s how it works: The outer tines of the Knork, which is produced by Phantom Enterprises Inc. and is available in metal and plastic versions in a variety of finishes, are tapered to create a fine, but not sharp, cutting edge.
This is perfect for parties or any other event at which people eat standing up or holding their plate. More seriously, the Knork could also assist someone with use of only one hand.
GET YOURS: The Knork is available starting at $2 (four-pack of plastic Knorks).

Cinnamon chips, part 2

Readers have come through with sources for cinnamon baking chips.
*They're at some SuperTargets (Hershey brand).
*Albertsons in Lewisville had them this week.
*One reader had to have a friend in Virginia send a cinnamon-chip care package. Good news: Now she finds them at Sak 'n Save at Josey and Belt Line in Carrollton.
*Several people pointed out that King Arthur Flour carries cinnamon chips -- but the web site says they're currently on back-order until Dec. 12. You can place an order and they won't charge your credit card until the chips are shipped.

December 4, 2007

Gift wines for the holidays

Find out which wines the Taste wine panel chose for holiday giving.

The 6-pound pie from Texas

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Had enough of pecan and pumpkin? Check out the behemoth apple pie made in the Hill Country. Find out more about the Tootie Pie from Boerne, Texas. You can get them by mail order or at Central Market.

'Victoria' magazine's back, with a Texan in the spotlight

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Tomorrow's Taste section will be all about the winners of this year's cookie contest. One of the judges, who was also featured in a recent issue of Taste, was Rebecca Rather, chef-owner of Rather Sweet Bakery and Cafe in Fredericksburg (www.rathersweet.com) and author of The Pastry Queen Christmas: Big-Hearted Holiday Entertaining Texas Style (Ten Speed Press, $32.50).

Rebecca is also featured prominently in the November/December premiere issue of Victoria magazine (www.victoriamag.com). As in The Pastry Queen Christmas, the four-page photo spread is all about the way Rebecca has taken to celebrating the holidays since her move to Fredericksburg seven years ago. "It's close to impossible not to get swept up in the Christmas spirit when it's all around you," the story quotes her.

The reincarnated Victoria has plenty of other holiday goodies in its pages, too, including pictures and recipes for linzertorte, panna cotta and shortbread, and a back-page essay about the joys of holiday cookie-baking.

December 2, 2007

Pick a very cool pear

pears.jpgCruising around the Dallas Central Market recently, I came across a pear I hadn't seen before, a Forelle (see pic, lower right). It's bright red, and I confess I let it sit out several days before eating it.

It's not quite the Honeycrisp of pears, but close. The flesh is both firm and creamy, sweet and juicy. And it doesn't bruise up or overripen easily as some varieties do. Learn more about the different pears we see in the store at www.usapears.com.

Photo courtesy of www.usapears.com

A cookbook that goes to pot

cannablis%20cookbook.jpgSpeaking of legal (see community garden post), here's a new cookbook that could have landed you in jail in the '60s: Tim Pilcher's The Cannabis Cookbook (Running Press, $16.95).

This is not a come-on; it's a serious cookbook full of recipes using the illegal weed as an ingredient. For instance, there's the Green Day Salad with Marijuana Mustard Dressing that includes leafy cannabis greens in the salad and ground cannabis bud in the dressing. Or Charas Curry, which calls for cannabis ghee. And what cookbook of this nature would be complete without a brownie recipe, in this case Crash Brownies using cannabutter? You get the idea.

The author lives in the United Kingdom, where this book was first published. A passage in the author's bio notes that, "Since he gave up smoking, eating cannabis would be the only way he would partake of the herb. If he were so inclined."

I would never presume to recommend that you prepare a dish with an illegal substance. Or purchase a book that tells you how to do so. I would only say that some of these dishes sound pretty good. If someone were so inclined.

November 29, 2007

Chow gift guide

Remember Chow? The foodie-forward magazine that's now a web site? Check out their holiday gift guide.

Last Eden's Organic market day and community garden groundbreaking

Eden's Organic Garden Center hosts its final market day of the season Saturday from 10 a.m. to noon. Then at 2 p.m., after the Balch Springs Christmas parade, the center breaks ground on its community garden. This is a community project, and and gardeners can work for food or lease a private plot to grow their own for their family or favorite charity.

Meanwhile, by now you know the drill for the market day: Call or e-mail Thursday to find out what's going to be available and pre-order certain items, such as organically or sustainably raised grass-fed beef, pastured poultry and eggs, some organic produce, and specialty breads. This time, there will also be organic, handmade chocolates.

To get the list or more information, call the center at 214-348-3336 or go to the Web site and leave your e-mail address so the staff can send the list to you. The garden center is at 4710 Pioneer Road in Balch Springs, near I-635 and I-20.

November 27, 2007

Boursin does a special holiday cheese

One of my favorite appetizer shortcuts, Boursin, has a limited-time holiday flavor: apple-cranberry-cinnamon with chunks of fruit embedded in the soft cheese. This is a no-brainer with crackers. And I suppose it would also be good on hot apple pie for dessert.

With the holidays, I'm often appetizer-challenged. Or maybe I should say paralyzed. I want to do too much and end up doing not much at all. Do you have a favorite no-brainer appetizer?


November 24, 2007

Take stress out of entertaining with easy, zingy appetizers

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Festive Kitchen's zingers, bacon-wrapped dried apricots that have a jalapeño kick, are bound to add some zip to your holiday gatherings. Pop the frozen zingers in a 400 F oven for about 15 minutes, and you're ready to serve guests. They also can be served at room temperature.

Find out more about them in this story by Jaimie Knodel.

November 23, 2007

Heritage turkey and cheesecloth

Turkey%20%281%29.JPGFor the trouble of finding the cheesecloth for Turkey Day (so yesterday, I know), the Significant Other was able to roast this gorgeous, bronzed Bourbon Red heritage breed, pastured turkey. This 17-pounder has a high breastbone (it's not a Broadbreast turkey), but it was a long turkey, so we got just as much white meat. The Martha Stewart method calls for soaking cheesecloth in melted butter and wine and draping it over the bird while it cooks.

Meanwhile, for the gravy, I I made it the usual way with drippings, with this secret addition: The liver from this turkey smelled so good that I boiled it with the rest of the giblets for additional turkey stock, then chopped it fine. After straining the stock, I put the liver pieces back in and made a slurry with a hand-held blender. While preparing the gravy, I added the slurry, which brought wonderful depth to the gravy's flavor without actual liver bits floating in it. No one was the wiser, and they loved it. I know it's all over till next year, but does anyone else have a secret ingredient for great gravy?

Photo by Ric Martin



Picolo pickles revealed

pickles.jpg A few posts ago, when Rosemary mentioned the pickles from Collin Street Bakery in Corsicana that are so good she gives them as presents, I had no idea she was talking about Picolo bread-and-butter pickles, which are my all-time faves. Crunchy, with vivid spices, there's just enough sweetness to offset the vinegar.

I used to buy them at the Northwest Highway and Preston Tom Thumb, but I'm not sure they're still there; at the very least, they've been bumped from their premium, end-cap display case. If they're not someplace else in the store, or at other Tom Thumbs, I'd gladly order a case.

But here's the mystery: Are they made by a subsidiary of Collin Street, or another company entirely? I can't figure this out from the label or the Collin Street Web site. Anyone know? As well as where to buy them locally?

November 22, 2007

The Garbage Bowl

10126.jpgLeave it to Rachael Ray to have us thinking we need a special bowl for garbage. But apparently we do (especially today). It's also available online from Target.
News flash: You could probably use a bowl you already own for this. But at about $17, it's a good holiday gift for the Rach fans on your list.
I swear I saw her using a fetching blue one on TV once, but I couldn't find it online. Let me know if you've seen it for sale anywhere.

November 21, 2007

Cheesecloth - what's that?

One more reason why your Wal-Mart Neighborhood Market might not be the place to pick up last-minute baking and turkey day supplies. The Significant Other went by on a quest for cheesecloth to lay over his Martha Stewart turkey (the only recipe he will use) and asked six staffers whether the store carried it. They didn't know what it was. Not one of them. He found it later at an Albertson's.

Ain't No Mo Butter Cakes gets new Web site

I was sore distressed to find the Ain't No Mo Butter Cakes Web site dysfunctional yesterday. What? At the height of the holiday dessert season? 'Turns out it's just a brief interruption while the bakery develops a new site under a slightly different name, says owner Sheri Brown. It will take the search engines a while to catch up, but the new site is www.aintnomobuttercakes.net.

This hasn't slowed down the ovens at the bakery, which is still making the same buttery-rich Bundt cakes at the same physical address with the same phone number: 1721 Barnes Bridge Road; 214-321-5350.

November 20, 2007

Cinnamon chips found

I found cinnamon chips! On the bottom shelf on the baking aisle at the Brookshire's in Forney.
This will only be news if you survived the great Cinnamon Chip Drama of 2001, when a winning recipe in our cookie contest had bakers scrambling for the elusive ingredient, which is made by Hershey's.
Cinnamon chips are similar to butterscotch or peanut butter chips, but they're cinnamon flavored. Here's the recipe for Cinnamon Praline Drops.
I haven't had time to search other local chains. Let us know if (and where) you've found them.

November 16, 2007

Potato shortcut for Thanksgiving

simply%20potatoes.gifIf you get really, really, really pressed for time on Thanksgiving, or you're really, really, really bad at making mashed potatoes, Simply Potatoes Mashed Potatoes in the refrigerated section at the grocery store are good enough to pass off as homemade.

Of course, when the second ingredient is half-and-half and the third ingredient is butter, it's kind of easy to see why they're so good. I have been known to buy them when I've got to have a mashed potato fix and got to have it now.

Bonus: If you go to the Web site, you can print a coupon worth 55 cents off on any one package.

Latte Da goat cheeses at Grapevine Farmers Market

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You might remember that a few weeks ago, we had a story about veterinarian Anne Jones and her Latte Da Dairy in Flower Mound.

Dr. Jones has just sent word that "this Saturday (Nov. 17), I will be at the Grapevine Farmers Market (just behind the Gazebo off Main Street)." She will be selling her prize-winning chevre, feta and Argento Capra varieties from 8 a.m. until 12 noon, or as long as her day's supplies last.

She says she's "guessing this will be the last Farmers Market until springtime," but she hopes to schedule some farm pick-up days for customers who can make they trek out to her dairy.

Latte Da Dairy goat cheeses are retailed at Central Market stores in Fort Worth, Southlake and Dallas. Dr. Jones says she just delivered her first order of Piccolo Brie to CM-Fort Worth.

Above right: Dr. Anne Jones with her Latte Da Dairy goats. (DMN file photo: Rex C. Curry)

Italian blips for Saturday shoppers

While you're out and about Saturday, here are two places to pause:

Flavors From Afar hosts local author Sarah Carson for a book-signing from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. of A Tuscan Farm. There will be cappuccino, wine and nibbles for tasting all day. 6712 Sinder Plaza.

Jimmy's Food Store will have an in-store tasting of a pinot noir from Sartori, a prosecco from Cantine Mashio and a wine that went on sale Thursday for a fab price, if there's any left: The Bonizio from Cecchi, which is a sangiovese from the Maremma region of Tuscany, is $7.99 a bottle when purchased by the case. Fireside Pies provides pizza with the wine. All free. 4901 Bryan at Fitzhugh.

November 15, 2007

Pumpkin desserts to go

NF_PumpkinDessert2.JPGThese bite-size beauties from Petit Fours Cakes Gourmet will make you forget all about pumpkin pie. From left: pumpkin meringue tarts, pumpkin cheesecake petit four, and white chocolate pumpkin spice truffles. Check their web site for more adorable holiday treats.

Of course, it's all about pumpkin now. Find other pumpkin desserts from bakeries around town, and don't forget to order well ahead of time.

November 14, 2007

Kevin Garvin's turkey recipe

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Neiman Marcus chef Kevin Garvin shares his turkey and gravy recipe -- plus a video on how to carve the turkey. I'm not a huge turkey fan but I've watched this one three times. The meat is simply gorgeous, and you can hear the skin crackle when he slices it. E-mail it to someone you love -- you know, the person who always wants to carve the turkey.

Kevin Garvin's Thanksgiving turkey (DMN Photo by Evans Caglage)

November 13, 2007

A few heritage turkeys available

Marie at Eden's Organic Garden Center sent out an alert that there are 10 heritage turkeys available this Saturday, in weights ranging from 7 to 20 pounds at $5.50 a pound. The hitch is, she needs to confirm preorders for five in order for the farmer to drive in from Glenrose. These are free-range turkeys, tend to be less fat and have less white meat. But the flavor is terrific and worth the extra effort. I ordered mine a month ago.

She also included a list of Bistro Mama's organic breads, pastas and pies. What caught me eye was the cinnamon-pecan baguettes for holiday French toast, plus organic apple butter. She also makes apple and pecan pies.

Eden's asks for pre-orders, so producers will know what to bring to the small market which features organic and sustainable goods. To get more information, call (214-348-3336) or email Eden's. The market is from 10 a.m. to noon Saturday at 4710 Pioneer Road in Balch Springs.

November 12, 2007

How to fry a turkey

Check out this video of Robert Ramm of Barbeques Galore. He makes frying a turkey look simple. He's got a lot of good safety tips, too.

Kroger tops supermarket survey

The Business section surveyed four local supermarket chains to rate them in four areas: price, service, selection and how long it takes to check out. Kroger racked up the most points, but each chain had a different strength. Read more about Dallas supermarkets here.

November 9, 2007

Collin Street Bakery time

fruitcake.jpgIf you have lived in Dallas roughly longer than five minutes, you know that Collin Street Bakery in Corsicana to the south makes world-famous fruitcakes that people eat, as opposed to using for doorstops.

But what I find interesting, looking at this year's mailer, is the pecan cakes, which are essentially fruitcakes without the traditional candied fruits. For instance, there's an Apricot Pecan Cake, the new Texas Blonde Pecan Cake (with papaya and pineapple, cherries and golden raisins), Pineapple Pecan Cake and Apple-Cinnamon Pecan Cake.

And the pineapple comes from Collin Street's own organic Costa Rican pineapple farms.

Check out the Web site, the Corsicana store or the new store at Interstate 45 and State Highway 287 just east of Corsicana. And if you doubt the bakery's reach, note that on the Web site, prices are given in U.S. dollars, Canadian dollars, British pounds, Euros and Australian dollars. There's also a Japanese Web site.

November 6, 2007

Parsing pecans

Bakers, it's time to start your ovens, and Texas Pecan Co. reports that new-crop fancy Texas pecans have just arrived. This should be of particular interest to bakers and holiday cooks because Texas Pecan carries mammoth and standard halves as well as pecan pieces in three sizes: small, medium and large.

The factory-outlet-type store has plenty of other useful holiday items, such as baking chocolate wafers (dark and milk), dried fruit, all manner of other nuts (whole, roasted, blanched, spiced, natural, etc.), gift tins and more. They're at 2850 Satsuma at Dennis near Royal Lane and Denton Drive.

November 1, 2007

Organic Market Day at Eden's

The little organic garden center that could now has three more Market Days scheduled through the end of the year, starting with this Saturday from 10 a.m. to noon.

Owner Marie Tedei assembles a handful of organic and sustainable producers of pastured poultry, grass-fed beef, free-range chicken eggs, homemade organic specialty breads and organic veggies for her market. The best way to shop is to get the list of producers and their items, and reserve a day or so ahead what you've absolutely got to have. Then again, you can also just show up. I've started using some of the goat's-milk soap I bought last time - silky and rich, but simple and fragrance-free.

To get the list, call 214-348-3336 or go to the Web site and leave your e-mail address.

When you come by, you can meet the farmers and ranchers as well as mingle with the various chickens, ducks, cats and horses that share the property. Can you say fall photo op?

Market Days at Eden's will also be held Nov. 16 and Dec. 1. The garden center is at 4710 Pioneer Road in Balch Springs, near the intersection of I-635 and I-20.

October 30, 2007

Fire and ice take toll on avocados

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Watch for the price of avocados to climb over the next several months, as a freeze has claimed 40 percent of the crop in Chile and the fires in Southern California have wiped out 30 percent of the state's crop.

The Associated Press reports that fires have damaged or destroyed at least a third of California’s crop in northern San Diego County. But our local expert, American Foodservice produce buyer Jeff Blackmon, says it’s not just the fires that pose the biggest threat. It’s the winds, which have been blowing new, young fruit off the trees.

“This is the late December-early January crop,” he says.

Only Mexico, the other major growing area, is expected to bring in a normal harvest. “Mexico’s in the driver’s seat for the next five or six months,” Mr. Blackmon says.

Guacamole-lovers all over the country will be jockeying for what’s left of the fruit, which will drive the price higher for everyone. It might be time to start thinking chile con queso instead for the Super Bowl.

October 26, 2007

Early wine sale at Jimmy's

Jimmy's is having a pre-inventory wine sale this Saturday and Sunday: 20 percent off all wines. Don't bother calling and asking them to hold something for you. Get yourself up and get over there: they're opening at 8 a.m. Saturday for the sale. Remember, though -- no wine sales until noon on Sunday.

October 24, 2007

A better way to consume Paula's Texas Orange

Paula's Texas Orange and Paula's Texas Lemon are two wickedly wonderful citrus liqueurs. They are quite nice on their own, but Quintessential Chocolates Company of Fredericksburg goes Paula one better by using the Texas Orange as the filling in dark chocolate candies.
Here's where to order Paula's Texas Orange chocolates. They're $6.50 plus shipping for a box of six pieces (a convenient size for filling a Christmas stocking).
Quintessential Chocolates also makes chocolates filled with various wines and spirits, including some Texas wines.

October 23, 2007

That's one sweet-looking bride!

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This comes from our colleagues on the Metro blog:

A reader sent Neighborsgo editor Kandace Dodson a story suggestion, with pictures. There's an interesting woman in Rowlett, the reader says, who owns her own bakery called Absolutely Edible Cakes. Words won't describe one of Nikita Jackson's latest cake creations. So here's the photo (at right). The cake is designed to look like the bride.

From the additional pictures that were sent, we can tell you that this bride's cake is virtually life-size. The design is an extravagant replica of the real bridal gown, the bodice of which features a heart-shaped, jeweled panel with paisley and flower shapes embroidered into it.

Though this is one of her more spectacular specialty efforts, Nikki Jackson also does more conventional wedding and special-occasion cakes, as her bakery's website makes clear. She says she has "had cakes featured on Good Morning Texas, Walker Texas Ranger and on the billboards throughout the state of Texas, when I created cakes for the Texas Lottery Commission."

For more information, contact Ms. Jackson at 972-463-9199.

'Uncorked!': wine in a box [set]

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Looking for a gift for the budding oenophile on your holiday list? Try the three-DVD box set of Uncorked! Wine Made Simple ($49.95), a six-episode series featuring Ted Allen, the culinary expert from Queer Eye for the Straight Guy.

Viewers will learn the essentials of wine selection, meet industry personalities and join the host on tours of the California wine country and key regions of France. The set also includes 15 bonus features such as cooking demos and wine pairings.

Uncorked! is available at major retailers and through Amazon.com.

Pumpkin butter from Calloway's

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You may be tempted to buy a jar of Calloway’s Nursery Pumpkin Butter on sheer impulse — it is displayed next to the cash register.
Or maybe, you think, even if we don’t have seasons in Texas, you can at least buy a little autumn in a jar.
But the real reason to purchase this pumpkin butter is under the lid. The silky spread is like liquid gingerbread, chockablock with spices and sweetness. It’s so spicy that there’s an afterburn.
Immediately, the cogs start to work thinking about the best delivery vehicles: biscuits and toast. Apples and pears. Vanilla yogurt (and toss in some granola for a breakfast treat). Toasted poundcake, maybe topped with a little coconut, too. Cheesecake. A spoon.
The pumpkin butter is made for Calloway’s with nothing but pumpkin, brown sugar, water, lemon juice and spices. A 9-ounce jar is about $5. Look for it at Calloway’s stores.
Laura H. Ehret

October 19, 2007

Ain't No Mo Buttercakes

One of the best things about Brothers Chicken was the discovery of Ain't No Mo Buttercakes, a sort of bakery in transition whose baby Bundt cakes are on the menu there.

I had the chocolate and buttercream, which were pure pleasure: moist, flavorful, with a beautiful delicate texture - and no off mix-y notes. With a call to the bakery, I found out they also supply eight area Williams Chickens (you could call for the one nearest you), Hall's Chicken Shack (the downtown and Buckner locations) and Michelle's Homestyle Cooking at Skillman and Audelia.

While they're concentrating on supplying restaurants and looking for a new location they will also work with individuals. In a city that loves food finds, these cakes are da bomb.

October 18, 2007

Take a Texas food tour

Hundreds of local foodies took food tours with freelance writer Susan Taylor before she moved to Chicago awhile back. Now there's a new culinary tour company in town. Food Roots organizes tours to artisan food producers and events around the state. They're just getting started, so check it out and let them know what you want to see. And eat. Read more about Food Roots here.

October 17, 2007

A peanut patty of a different color

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Peanut patties. You either love them or you don't. Would you change your mind if they came in another flavor? (What is the "flavor" of a peanut patty, anyway?) Check out these peanut patties in a range of flavors. The neon darlings, for sale at the State Fair of Texas, are from Arlington-based Texas Authentic.

Flower Mound vet opens dairy to make goat cheese

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Today in Taste, you can read all about Dr. Anne Jones, a veterinarian who now runs the Latte Da Dairy in Flower Mound. The story includes a link to a video of Dr. Jones with her dairy goats, a.k.a. "the divas."

Latte Da Dairy's fresh goat cheese is available in the Dallas area exclusively at Central Market and costs about $8-$10 per 4-oz container.

You can meet Anne Jones and other Texas goat cheese makers the first weekend of November at Central Market. Events featuring local wine and cheese makers are scheduled from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Nov. 2 at the Dallas store; Nov. 3 in Southlake; and Nov. 4 in Fort Worth.

(Dallas Morning News photo: Rex C. Curry)

Local foods: bookmark it!

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Kim Pierce has compiled an excellent list of local food producers and shopping sources. It includes everything from artisan cheeses to produce grown at a Dallas elementary school. These folks need your support, so check it out and shop local whenever you can.

If you know of a local producer that we missed, let us know.

Shown: pastured beef from Rehoboth Ranch, by Natalie Caudill.

October 14, 2007

DOP means real San Marzano tomatoes

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After discovering a 27-inch cucuzza (a kind of squash whose flesh resembles chayote) in the Significant Other's garden, we had to prepare it the Italian way - in a basic tomato sauce with onions, a touch of garlic and a few herbs. Absent fresh tomatoes, the very best, most flavorful canned ones are San Marzanos, grown in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius in Campania, whose volcanic ash produces the right terroir.

Trouble is, you can grow San Marzano seeds anywhere and call them San Marzano tomatoes. How do you know you've got the real thing? The intense, vivid flavor of course will knock you out, but that doesn't help much when you're buying a can.

Look for the DOP. Since 1999, San Marzano hs been protected by a European Union DOP (Protected Dominion of Origin), and cans that carry the DOP designation, which has two seals that go along with it, are the genuine pomorodo San Marzano dell'Agro Sarnese-Nocerino.

I bought the Coluccio brand at Jimmy's Food Store, a steep $3.99 for 28 ounces. But worth it, so worth it, in the final dish, which I reheated for breakfast and poached an egg in. Now that's Italian.

October 13, 2007

Tom Spicer's FM1410 report for Oct. 12

Tom Spicer, our man-on-the-edge produce purveyor at FM1410, reports these items just in or coming:

Artichokes, from crowns to tulips (peeled) to rough-cut hearts for dips and such
Jose Rico's young greens, including wild and Rustica (a variety) arugula, red mustards, Tatsoi and more
Lots of fresh herbs
Dwarf lettuces: Different from baby greens, they form little heads with a crisp, swet center or heart
Huckleberries
Creamer, purple-hull and black-eyed peas
Mushrooms of many stripes
Kobacha winter squash, Butternut, Buttercup and Hokaido (Hubbard), too
Coming around Thanksgiving: Louisiana citrus, including Satsuma Mandarins, Meyer lemons, sweet oranges, ruby grapefruit and kumpquats
Still going: Pecos heirloom tomatoes (pricey)

Remember: A lot of this stuff isn't out on display; you have to read the blackboard for a rundown of items and prices. FM 1410 is at 1410 Fitzhugh, just a few Texas two-steps steps closer to Central Expressway than Jimmy's Food Store at Bryan and Fitzhugh. Open seven days a week.

October 12, 2007

'Eat It!': More games people play

A while back we told you about "Foodie Fight," a trivia game for gourmet types, played something like Trivial Pursuit.

Now there's a pop-culture trivia game suited to those of us who tend to spend more time sacked out in front of the tube than perusing the latest issue of Gourmet.

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"Eat It! Snacks & Sweets Trivia Game" is family-oriented and is recommended for ages 13 and up. The game contains questions such as:

What kind of animal is Cheetos' mascot, Chester?
What does TCBY stand for?
Complete this jingle: "Gimme a break! Gimme a break! Break me off a piece of that --."

"Eat It!" has a list price of $29.99 and is available nationwide at Toys "R" Us. It's also available online with varying discounts at Walmart.com, Amazon.com and Target.com. It may be ordered directly from the company for $30.99. See www.eatittrivia.com for more information.

October 10, 2007

Not a press for the rest of us

duck press.jpgGo ahead. Guess what that is. If, like me, you don't know, than You Probably Don't Need One.

This, my foodie friends, is a solid brass French duck press. And no, it's not something I found on a duck farm in France. It's on the cover of the Hammacher Schlemmer holiday preview catalog.

What do you do with it? According to the text, it's used in restaurants to make Canard a la presse (pressed duck) tableside. Waiters remove the meat from the bones, then press the bones to release juices and marrow. These are combined with wine, brandy, aromatics (like herbs), and seasonings. The resulting slurry is heated and reduced to a glaze, then served over the duck.

I can't believe the Neiman Marcus catalog didn't find it first. It's $1,999.95 at www.hammacher.com.

October 9, 2007

Cauliflower? Make mine purple

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OK, I'm over my Whole Foods bashing. I'm slogging through that one-way-out produce section today, and what do I see? A head of purple cauliflower. Not lavender or pale violet. But full-bore, Easter-egg purple. (WFM also has the orange variety.) This link to Apartment Therapy has a recipe for Purple Cauliflower Soup. Bet there are a lot of little kids who would think twice about this dandy cruciferous vegetable if it were this color. Any moms tried this?

October 8, 2007

Meet the new Tom Thumb

Maybe I'm the last person on the planet to discover this, but the Tom Thumb across the street from Central Market near Old Town has taken a quantum leap forward. Besides remodeling and new lighting that gives it a much warmer feel, it has added things like a nut bar, with fresh-roasted nuts and nut butters, as well as an expanded wine section.

One of the last times I was in this store to peruse the wines, there was a buzzer or chime that sounded every time you crossed an invisible barrier going into and out of the department -- very creepy and Big-Brotherish. Someone's in the wine section. Now they're out. Quick, count the bottles.

Now the department is on the other side of the store and boasts a bigger selection of wines, including many that go beyond typical grocery-store fare at both the higher and low end -- like the very friendly and drinkable Bloom Riesling for under $8. Not only that, a knowledgeable employee approached me to see if he could help with a selection. Whoa, what's this? A wine steward in a grocery store?

October 7, 2007

Whole Foods and bad slow produce

A big thumbs-down to Whole Foods' new produce department arrangement at Preston-Forest. There is now one snaking pathway from the front door to the cheese department. Forget something? You have to wind back though the snake. If the team thinks this arrangement, which looks like it's borrowed from Central Market's playbook, is helpful to shoppers, it would be wrong. SO WRONG.

Why not slap Central Market around for the same sin? Because the winding path was part of CM's concept from the beginning; it wasn't an add-on. Here, it smells like a way to try and slow shoppers down -- in the hopes that they'll buy more. And that stinks.

Am I the only one who finds this annoying?

October 5, 2007

'Neiman Marcus Taste' signing is set for chef Kevin Garvin

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Next week promises to be a full-scale centennial gala celebration for Neiman Marcus, especially at the flagship store in downtown Dallas. And NM devotees and fans of the famed Zodiac restaurant won't want to miss their chance to have The Store's centennial cookbook, Neiman Marcus Taste (Clarkson Potter, $45), signed by NM executive chef Kevin Garvin.

As VP of corporate food services, Kevin has done a complete update of the 2003 Neiman Marcus Cookbook -- which, like the new one, was co-written by John Harrisson. There are mainstays such as the beloved NM popover, classics from foodie icon Helen Corbitt, new entries from NM corporate chef Anita Hirsch, and plenty of new or adapted dishes from Kevin himself, including some of his family's favorite recipes.

Kevin will be signing Neiman Marcus Taste next weekend, on Saturday, Oct. 13, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; and Sunday, Oct. 14, noon to 3 p.m. Both signings will take place on the Main Floor of the downtown store, and the Zodiac also will be open on Sunday from noon to 3 p.m.

Sprinkles: Get your Texas-OU Cupcakes

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A reminder following up on Joyce's item:

Today and tomorrow only, Sprinkles is bringing fans together with two special cupcakes: Longhorn Vanilla (vanilla cake, vanilla butter cream frosting and an orange Longhorn decoration) and Big Red Velvet (red velvet cake, cream cheese frosting, and red modern dot).

Total proceeds from the sale of the spirit cakes will be donated to the Children’s Medical Center Dallas and Children’s Medical Research Institute at the OU Health Sciences Center, respectively.

Drop by today and you can participate in Sprinkles’ Most Spirited Fan Contest. Get your outfit and face-paint ready. Sprinkles-obsessed Victoria Snee, also known as the CW33 and Mix 102.9 fashion reporter, will be at Preston Plaza at 1 PM sharp to name the Most Spirited Fan.

One winner will be chosen from each team. Victors will receive two tickets for the game.

Sprinkles Texas-OU cupcakes, $3.25 each or $36 for a dozen

Sprinkles Cupcakes, 4020 Villanova Dr., 214-369-0004


October 4, 2007

Wine/cheese/chocolate sampling at Celebration

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Enjoy a complimentary tasting of wine, cheese and chocolate this Saturday from 12 noon to 2 p.m. at Celebration Market, next door to Celebration restaurant at 4515 West Lovers Lane in Dallas. They'll be featuring candies from Fort Worth's Sweet shop and cheeses from Dallas' own Mozzarella Co., as well as expert advice on pairings.

Call 214-352-0031 or see the Celebration Web site for information.

October 3, 2007

Texas-OU weekend is nearly upon us...

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...so here's a reminder about Sprinkles' Red River Rivalry cupcakes, which will be available in Dallas on Friday and Saturday only.

Just a suspicion, but I'm betting the UT Longhorn Vanilla cupcakes will outsell the OU Big Red Velvet cupcakes by about 5 to 1. Because after all, we're not in OKC here. But who knows? It might just come down to chocolate lovers versus vanilla lovers. And in that case, OU might win in a runaway.

October 2, 2007

Trendspotting: Oddly flavored chips

So a while back I blogged on the chocolate tortilla chips. A gourmet entry into junkfood that didn't work as well as I'd hoped. I can't compete with Kim's Frito-Lay smoked-ham-flavored chips from France. But here in NTx, my wife spotted Nabisco's entries into odd-chipdom. Under the Garden Harvest name: Banana, Apple-Cinnamon, and Tomato-basil.

Start with the banana. The first ingredient is, well lookie here! -- banana. Plus whole wheat flour, rice flour and assorted other stuff. It's good! A bit of salt, a strong sense of banana. I'd say it would meet the constant-crunch-while-watching-football test. And as junkfood goes, less junky than some.

The tomato-basil's #2 ingredient is: "DEHYDRATED VEGETABLE BLEND (CARROT, TOMATO, BROCCOLI, ONION, SPINACH, GREEN AND RED BELL PEPPER)." And apples is #2 in the apple-cinnimon chip. Both are also good chips, I think.

Here's the official Nabisco website where you can -- if you really want to -- check out the fats/carbs/fiber info.

October 1, 2007

Splenda packets carry sweet new wording

This is kind of funny. I just noticed this because I bought a new box of packets of Splenda no-calorie sweetener.

Up till recently, the yellow packets have had nutritional info on the back, telling you how Splenda's made of dextrose, maltodextrin and sucralose, that it has zero calories, and so forth.

But now each packet has a happy little message on the back, telling us that Splenda is our "packet to paradise":
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You are what you sweet.

The packet holds the key to sweetness.

Sprinkle happily ever after.

Get ready for sweetness!

Caution: May result in extreme happiness. Sprinkle at your own risk.

And, our favorite, because it's the most like a fortune-cookie: Every sweet deed you do will be repaid to you tenfold.

September 29, 2007

Dallas Farmers Market foraging

Nice weather for hitting the farmers market. Look for some late-summer local stuff like pinto beans, some peas, onions, red new potatoes, persimmons, cucumbers and watermelons, as well as yellow straight-neck and zucchini squash. Some of the dealers will have new-crop fall apples, pears, carrots and more from out-of-state. The fall ornamentals like pumpkins, corn and gourds aren't local either, but they're fun for invoking the spirit of fall. Downtown market: Open Saturday and Sunday, 1010 S. Pearl.

Meanwhile, here are highlights from FM1410: Tom Spicer's still got chard from Stonewall Jackson Elementary as well as loads of not-local mushrooms, including Abalone, Maitake, Blue Chanterelles, Lobster and others. He's also got fresh huckleberries. From other points southeast, he's bringing in sorrel, green tomatoes, baby okra and peas, sweet white corn, wild and baby arugula, tons of fresh herbs, and baby head lettuces. The store's at 1410 Fitzhugh near Bryan. Open till 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Going to the dogs

Many tasty Texas treats were on offer at Thursday night's preview party at the Food and Fiber Pavilion at the State Fair of Texas. Why, then, did I end the evening eating dog food?

Bark for Peace, based in Austin (where else?), offers "100% human-grade" dog treats. The idea is to take a snack break with your dog.

Ever the curious reporter, I agreed to nibble a patch of sweet potato jerky. It tasted like nicely seasoned, not-too-sweet fruit leather. Not that I like fruit leather all that much. I drew the line at the bone-shaped biscuit.

Bark For Peace treats are sold mostly in Austin, but look for them at the Texas Department of Agriculture shop in the Food & Fiber Pavilion during the fair.

September 26, 2007

Talk about 'designer' coffee...

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If you're into interior design, you've surely heard of the immortal Dorothy Draper, who was recently the subject of an exhibit at the Women's Museum. Dorothy designed the interiors for Dallas' own Stoneleigh Hotel. But we bet she never designed her own coffee brand. Her protege, Carleton Varney (who continues to run Dorothy Draper & Co.) has done that very thing. Carleton Coffees come in nine regular and five decaf varieties, all arabica beans from coffee-growing regions such as Hawaii, Sumatra, Guatemala and Kenya. To order online: www.carletoncoffees.com.

September 25, 2007

Free the frissee at Central Market

I don't blame Christopher Wynn for feeling suckered over the inflated plant price at Home's Depot's Landscape Supply. I'm not as miffed as he was, but I am curious what makes a head of frissee at Central Market worth twice the price of bulk frissee. Over where the heads are tucked, the price is $9.99 a pound (and no, it's not a mistake). But walk 10 feet further and the loose, bulk frissee is $4.99 a pound. So you pay an extra $5 for what? The privilege of pulling it apart yourself?

September 24, 2007

Weird junk food news

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Chocolate tortilla chips.

Yup. It's a slightly salty corn chip, plus cocoa and a bit of sugar. I've heard it said that anything gets better with chocolate. Maybe this will grow on me. But it's not sweet enough to be sweet, not chocolaty enough to satisfy a serious chocolate jones, not salty enough to hit that spot solidly, either. OTOH, the combo is not bad. A nice cocoa "nose." Plenty crunchy. Hm. 3 grams of fiber per ounce. Darned near health food in the junk category.

Would I buy it again? I need to munch a few more and think about it.

The product is from a company called FoodShouldTasteGood. And who could argue with that. I found my bag at, duh, Central Market.

September 22, 2007

Spiceman's got greens

Tom Spicer's latest missive reports that he's got rainbow chard from the Stonewall Jackson Elementary School garden, as well as wild and baby arugula, baby turnip greens, wild watercress, local wild purslane and more from Jose Rico Farms in Navarro County. He's also touting ugly, but good-tasting Mexican Maradol papayas, ripe persimmons, Tex-Asian pears, Pecos heirloom tomatoes, lots of herbs and more. For a quick study of what's available, check the blackboard when you arrive. Then just cool your heels and expect to chat awhile with this eccentric produce broker who's manical about supporting local producers. He's at 1410-B Fitzhugh, just a sashay toward Central from Jimmy's Food Store at Bryan and Fitzhugh. He's open every day, closed Sunday morning.

Texas-Tuscan olive oil connection

If you get a chance today, drop by Flavors From Afar between 2 and 5 p.m., where Texan Carolyn Adair will be chatting informally about her Tuscan olive oil. She owns a 100-tree olive orchard in Tuscany, where she has been harvesting olives for five years. Last year, she made 400 bottles of Amici olive oil from 70 baskets of olives. It's about $34 for 500 milliliters, and she'll sign your bottle. Next month, Carolyn will be carting a crew of travelers over to pick the olives (not the most fun thing to do, if you believe Marlena De Blasi's bone-chilling account in A Thousand Days in Tuscany). This year's trip is already full, but it's never too early to plan for next year: Nov. 1-8, 2008. Flavors From Afar is at 6712 Snider Plaza.

September 19, 2007

Remember the Chick-O-Stick?

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OK, so maybe the Chick-O-Stick doesn't ring a bell for you. But your Texas-bred parents or grandparents might remember this peanut-candy snack, which has been around since 1932.

The Chick-O-Stick is still being made by the Atkinson's Candy Co. in Lufkin, and if you can't find it sold locally, just go online to www.atkinsoncandy.com.

There you will find a whole storefront of traditional Atkinson sweets, including Coconut Long Boys, Peanut Butter Bars, Peanut Brittle, Rainbow Sticks, Rainbow Coconut Bars, and Mint Twists.

Want to know more about the Chick-O-Stick?

Continue reading "Remember the Chick-O-Stick?" »

September 14, 2007

Test your food knowledge

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The new board game Foodie Fight (Chronicle, $18.95) sounds as if it works much the way Trivial Pursuit does, with a deck of trivia cards, six player boards to fill in till you bingo, and a die to cast (this one's color-coded).

But instead of asking questions about geography or movies, Foodie Fight is all about food -- with topics such as celebrity chefs, culinary science, food history and exotic cuisines.

We haven't seen or played it, so we can't rate it. But it sounds intriguing. And it might make the perfect holiday gift for that hard-to-please foodie on your list. As long as that person has four other friends besides you, that is.

September 13, 2007

How hot is it? Don't even ask!

If you're a dedicated chilehead, check out the Chile Pepper Institute online at New Mexico State University in Las Cruces, N.M.
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Not only does the website provide mucho interesting info related to all things Capsicum, it also has a Chile Shop, selling posters, books, T-shirts and chile pepper seeds.

The shop's big draw: Seeds from Capsicum chinense, aka Bhut Jolokia, which hails from Assam, India, and is billed as "the hottest pepper in the world," rating 1 million on the Scoville heat index (in its dried form, as seen at right). The ultra-hot pepper seeds are, if you're interested, $5 for a packet of 10.

Bhut Jolokia was recently named the world's hottest pepper by the Guinness Book of World records. Don't say we didn't warn you.

September 12, 2007

Chocolate that's just right

NF_NewTreeChocolate.JPGNew Tree’s little boxes, each of which holds three individually wrapped miniature chocolate bars, remind me of the miniature deck of playing cards I had as a child. Both are an appealing size that fits in the palm of your hand, but the Belgian chocolate squares inside the chocolate boxes are much more satisfying than the cards. These are the mood chocolates, with names such as Pleasure, Renew, Tranquility and Rejoice. Dark chocolate Renew, with black currant and cassis, echoes the flavors of a good cabernet sauvignon. But the tiny bits of crisped rice and bitter orange in milk chocolate Rejoice made it a favorite, too. At $2.59 per box, you can afford to try several. We found them at Market Street.

September 7, 2007

Dorm kitchen in a box

File this under, "Why hasn't anyone thought of this before?:" With kids off to college, you hope they'll be eating more than Ramen and chips, like intern Tara Cuslidge wrote about in Wednesday's Taste section. To do that, they'll need some kitchen basics, even in a dorm.

Instead of picking and choosing a bunch of individual items, cruise by Target, where I saw this nifty 40-piece Chefmate set in a box that includes one saucepan and lid, microwave dishes, two bowls, two glasses, two plates, knives, cooking spoons, a corkscrew, a scrubber and more. Pretty ideal for a starter set-up. Oops, I almost forgot the pizza cutter. Even that college essential is included. The set is $29.99.

September 5, 2007

Hooked on Hooks U Salsa

EVANS CAGLAGE/Staff PhotographerWe first saw Hooks U Salsa at Texas Salute! during the Dallas Wine & Food Festival. It was the best one at the tasting event. The medium heat and thickness are just right, and the tangy zing makes it taste superfresh. Not at all like something out of a jar. It’s made with no sugar, vinegar or preservatives, just tomatoes, onions, jalapeños, cilantro, salt, garlic, paprika and other spices.

Salsa maker Zoubida Hooks is working on mild and hot versions of her Fiery Food Challenge-winning recipe. She says her first flavor was medium because she wanted it to be “not so hot that the flavors get lost in the heat.” Ms. Hooks started making the medium salsa in her Colleyville kitchen, and she has given it to friends and family for several years; she started selling it in 2004.

A 16-ounce jar is $2.99 to $4.24, depending upon the store. Available at Market Street in Colleyville and McKinney, Albertson’s, Tom Thumb, Wal-Mart and some Kroger stores. It should also be available in select Whole Foods Markets and Brookshire’s supermarkets this month.

Recipes using Hooks U Salsa in everything from chili to soup are available at www.hooksusalsa.com.

September 4, 2007

Let's talk turkey

If you're thinking of getting a pasture-raised and/or heritage turkey for Thanksgiving, the time to reserve a bird is now. And the best way to see what's available is to go to the Slow Food Dallas Web site, where three members are offering the special gobblers: Duane Dawson, Margaret and Bob Drake and Robert Hutchins (Rehoboth Ranch). These birds will all be spoken for by the beginning of October.

Turkeys that are raised on pasture taste better than factory-farmed birds. They have a richer texture and more intense flavor, plus they are produced using sustainable methods. I'll go PETA on you for just a minute and add that I personally avoid eating factory-raised animals, particularly turkey and pigs, knowing how cruelly most are treated.

A shout out goes to Chipotle for being on the right side of that issue: Their pork comes from Niman Ranch, a collective of small, eco-conscious farmers. And guess who owns Chipotle: McDonald's. Way to go.

Organic garden center market day

This is a nascent growing operation: one tent set up for two hours Saturday morning. But if you are looking for organic and sustainably grown produce and meats, this is a good place to start. A handful of producers gather in the front yard of Eden’s Organic Garden Center in Balch Springs. Availability varies, but it’s best to e-mail Marie at Eden’s (EOGC@airmail.net) to find out what producers are bringing. That way, you can order some items in advance and have them waiting when you arrive. P.O.P. Acres and Ranch will be there with excellent pastured beef. Other purveyors are expected to bring chicken, eggs, garden vegetables and perhaps even canned or baked goods. Be flexible and discover a gem. Or talk to a chicken on the grounds. 9 to 11 a.m., 4710 Pioneer Road; 214-348-3336.

September 1, 2007

How to shop at F-M 1410

When I was at Tom Spicer's storefront, F-M 1410, recently, a woman came in, looked around and left without saying a word. You're probably not going to pick up on what's really available giving it the once-over this way. There's not a lot to see, just a cold case at the back, a few items on one side of the store and a refrigerator.

She should have looked at the blackboard, which lists what's available, or chatted with the Spiceman or one of his helpers. When I was there, Tom brought out some beautiful heads of baby lettuce and described the farm where the West Texas heritage tomatoes were grown. This is a s-l-o-w shopping experience.

Did I say nothing to see? Look down: The floor's painted red like watermelon flesh, complete with black seeds. Look at the walls: They're green like watermelon skin. Tom's got a thing for watermelon. He's at 1410 Fitzhugh near Bryan.

Wine of the week

EVANS CAGLAGE/Staff PhotographerNew Age, Mendoza, San Rafael, White Wine nonvintage, $9.49

Meant for warm-weather sipping with friends, this is a nonserious wine produced by a serious winery. It is made with sauvignon blanc and malvasia grapes, so floral, herbal, spicy, peachy aromas and flavors abound. The winemaker keeps the wine slightly sweet and fizzy with less than 10 percent alcohol by stopping the fermentation. That helps it go down easily, especially in sultry weather. Try it on the rocks with a twist of lemon or a wedge of lime. Available at Central Market and Corner Wines in Plano.

Rebecca Murphy

August 31, 2007

Drink like George Clooney

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GermanDeli.com in Southlake just sent over a basket of elderflower syrup. This did not excite me all that much until I read the release and determined that I could put a photo of George Clooney on the blog. So that's good.

Here's the deal. George Clooney likes the elderflower cocktail and wanted to serve it in Las Vegas at a party for the opening of Ocean's 13 during the CineVegas film festival. He wanted to serve 800 of them, to be exact. GermanDeli did the math and shipped the syrup just in time for the party.

Here's the recipe if you want to try it:

D'arbo Elderflower Cocktail: In a shaker, combine 1 cup tonic water, 1/2 cup Ciroc vodka, 1/4 cup D'arbo Elderflower Syrup, 1 tablespoon lime juice and 1 stalk of lemon grass, finely sliced, plus 3 or 4 ice cubes. Shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a stick of lemon grass.

The syrup is currently on sale for $15.99 for a 500-ml bottle.

Hatch chiles and farmers market news

hatch chile juanIt really is the month of Hatch chiles, siblings to Anaheims grown in Hatch, N.M. Add Brookshire's to the list of stores featuring the pods. They come in mild and hot versions, and because they're so fresh, they're also quite fragrant. Go to the next page for a recipe: Cheesy Hatch Chile Rice.

At farmers markets, the summer season is winding down. Best bets are still okra, peas, beans and squash. There are a few local, late-summer-crop tomatoes. Also dwindling supplies of peaches, cucumbers, onions, watermelon, cantaloupe, red new potatoes and Asian pears.

Photo by Juan Garcia/Staff Photographer

Continue reading "Hatch chiles and farmers market news" »

August 30, 2007

Harlingen shrimp at Whole Foods

Harlingen Shrimp Farm raises Texas white shrimp exclusively for Whole Foods Market, and September is the only month they're available fresh, not frozen. Whole Foodie Scott Simons says the flavor is amazing, and Scott's pretty good at keeping the sizzle consistent with the steak. I plant to give 'em a try for the holiday.

Here's another tip when you're in WFM (at least at the Lomo Alto location) and, to be fair, when the store's not too busy: You can ask the seafood department to cook a piece of salmon for you while you shop, then pick it up warm just before you're ready to check out. There's no extra charge.

Meet Meatpaper, the magazine of meat

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A quarterly magazine about...meat? Yep, it exists. And it's called, of course, Meatpaper. According to its founders, graphic designer Sasha Wizansky and writer Amy Standen:

Meatpaper is a print magazine of art and ideas about meat. We like metaphors more than marinating tips. We are your journal of meat culture. ...At once divisive and universal, delicious and disturbing, funny and dead-serious, meat polarizes us unlike any other food; it’s the Hillary Clinton of the freezer aisle. Us, we’re ambidextrous here at Meatpaper — no agenda except to gnaw on the ideas, artistic excursions and bone-deep emotions the subject inspires. We invite you to dig in with us.

A yearly subscription to Meatpaper, which is published (where else?) in San Francisco, is $28. The first issue ships in September.

August 29, 2007

Sample Ute corn

The Ute Mountain Ute Tribe, American Indians who hail from New Mexico, Colorado and Utah, are peddling their supersweet corn (called Ute Mountain Gold) and showing folks how to prepare it during free demonstrations on Labor Day.

• 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Monday. Plano Central Market, Coit Road at George Bush Turnpike; 469-241-9339.

• 2 to 6 p.m. Monday. Dallas Central Market, Lovers Lane at Greenville Avenue; 214-361-5754.

A taste of Country Living -- from Grand Prairie

Country Living magazine's line of specialty foods is produced by Grand Prairie's Heritage Family Specialty Food. Read more about the Country Living products here.

August 28, 2007

You be the (cookbook) judge

Some cookbooks makes us very afraid. The Texas Judicial Cookbook (Ovation Cookbooks, $19.95) is a "culinary tribute to Texas' county courthouses" that includes "59 recipes from presiding and former judges as well as other state and county officials."

Mind you, I haven't looked at the cookbook or recipes, so what follows is hearsay. But so often compilations like this end up as a sort of headless hodgepodge of random stuff. And with descriptions like "Texas classic" Chicken Pork Jambalaya, I am not encouraged.

Still, Gov. Rick Perry contributes Chuck Wagon Chili and Aunt Gene's Coconut Pie (could be promising). And Sen. Kay Bailey Hutchison gives us Cousin Susie's Perfect Fudge. But what are we to make of former first lady Barbara Bush's All-American Clam Chowder? For a Texas cookook? Gulf clams, sure. 'Guess I better clam up.


August 27, 2007

Community garden question

The subject of community gardens came up at the Slow Food new members meeting on Sunday, with this question: Is there a community garden in the Dallas area where someone could grow a few tomatoes and okra, as well as seasonal fall vegetables? Anyone got a line on this?

Tomato tip

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As summer and the flavors of summer fade, it's not too late to get Far West Texas heirloom tomatoes at Tom Spicer's F-M 1410. I mention this because new Slow Food member Peter Schaar says the Cherokee Purples are to die for if you're looking for that authentic, deep tomato taste. The Cherokee Purple (pictured, right) is a Slow Food Ark of Taste food, something that's being preserved and prized for its flavor ahd heritage. F-M 1410 is at 1410 Fitzhugh between the Asian community garden and Jimmy's Food Store.

Photo courtesy of Slow Food USA

August 25, 2007

Pecos cantaloupes and local edamame

If you're a fanantic about local produce, catch the end of the season's best at F-M 1410, Tom Spicer's storefront.

He's got Pecos cantaloupes and "local" edamame. Local in this case refers to fresh pods from Stonewall Jackson Elementary School's student garden. He's also got a few Texas peaches and Far West Texas heirloom tomatoes.

The store is at 1410 Fitzhguh near Bryan. It's open this afternoon till 5 p.m. and tomorrow (Sunday) 11 a.m to 5 p.m.

August 24, 2007

Razzberry M&M's

MarsIf you love chocolate and fruit, M&M's has a new pink-colored kind for you: Razzberry. The limited edition raspberry-flavored candies are milk chocolate and larger than an average M&M (more the size of the peanut variety, except there are no nuts inside these). Get them through October for 55 cents to $4.39 per package, depending on ounces. Maybe Mars should bring them back for Valentine's Day. Hint hint.

Also, if you missed them, M&M's Dark Chocolate Peanut Candies are back, and they're here to stay, the company says.

Last week for Wagon Creek

This is Wagon Creek Creamery's last weekend at the Coppell Farmer's Market, and it's done for the year at the Dallas Farmers Market. It seems that with school starting, the Crains are losing some of their workforce. Plus, in the hot weather, the cows would rather hang around the water tank than graze. The Crains say that you will still be able to buy their butter, yogurt cheese and more through Rehoboth Ranch at the McKinney Farmer's Market, and that they're hoping to make similar arrangements with Rehoboth at Coppell and the Dallas market in the coming weeks.

August 23, 2007

Two 'methode champenoise' sparklers from Italy

Contadi CastaldiChampagne, we know. It’s France’s premier sparkling-wine region, and only sparkling wines made there may be called Champagne. Considerably less familiar, Franciacorta is Italy’s premier sparkling-wine region, nestled in the foothills of the Alps.

Contadi Castaldi is one of the area’s top producers, using methode champenoise to make its sparkling wines (the way they’re made in Champagne). Yet, in typical Italian fashion, these sparklers are not treated exclusively as sparkling wines. They also are served like still wines in regular wine glasses.

Pour the Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut ($25) into a champagne flute, and it festoons the wine with bubbles. Serve it in a wine glass, and the action quiets, except in your mouth. I prefer the former, but then, I’m not Italian. Either way, toasty aromas of straw and earth that flirt with apple and citrus become broad and round when rolled on the palate. The friendly, nonvintage brut is made with chardonnay, pinot bianco and pinot nero (pinot noir).

Its sister wine, Contadi Castaldi’s 2001 Rosé ($30), is another sparkling find, with deep, rich berry fruit from pinot nero. But a wow moment occurs when it erupts on the finish mid-palate like a mushroom cloud of gossamer, cherry-cordial essence.

They’re both at Jimmy’s Food Store.

Kim Pierce

Corn stripper tool makes getting kernels easy

cornstripper.jpgThe OXO Good Grips Corn Stripper has metal teeth attached to a handy 1/2-cup container that holds the kernels. The teeth grab the kernels and divert them into the container, which can hold all the kernels from an average ear of corn.

It's sure safer and neater than using a knife, and it'll come in handy on Wednesday when we give you Dean Fearing's recipe for Sweet Corn and Queso Mashed Potatoes, served at Fearing’s Restaurant in the new Ritz-Carlton.

The Good Grips Corn Stripper ($11.99) is available at Williams-Sonoma, Bed Bath & Beyond and Sur La Table.

La Cave: Je suis officiellement en vacances

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La Cave, the wine warehouse at 1931 Market Center Blvd., has sent word that they're going to take a bit of summer vacation as of next Wednesday, Aug. 29.

(This announcement sounds so much more elegant the way La Cave's Francois Chandou puts it: "By respect of Labor Day, we will be closed.")

La Cave will reopen after Monday, Sept. 10. The wine warehouse is owned by Francois and his wife, Anne, who can be reached at 214-747-WINE (9463).

August 22, 2007

Goat butter rules at Fruth Farms

Caroline Fruth & goats

I recently went to Fruth Farms on a free tour organized by Flavors From Afar. Allen and Caroline Fruth warmly welcomed us onto their farm and into their home, and they were full of fun facts.

As someone who grew up in the city, I was amazed by the animals and their seeming happiness to be roaming and mingling (goats and chickens together). We learned about the mating habits of goats, the protective instincts of mother cows with their calves, that the spotted donkey keeps predators away from the cows, and that sometimes chickens sit on eggs that are not their own and play mom to the chicks that hatch.

But the best part of the day may have been the food!

(Caroline Fruth with her herd of goats: DMN file photo)

Continue reading "Goat butter rules at Fruth Farms" »

Wine of the week

EVANS CAGLAGE/Staff PhotographerJ, Russian River Valley, Pinot Noir 2005, $28.39-$34.99

J Vineyards established its name with excellent sparkling wines made from pinot noir and chardonnay. So it should be no surprise that it also can make still wines such as this scrumptious pinot noir from Sonoma County’s prestigious Russian River Valley. Enticing spicy, cherry and raspberry aromas invite a sip of refined and layered cherry-vanilla flavors outlined with vibrant acidity and burnished tannins longing for the companionship of grilled salmon.

Available at Central Market, Goody Goody Liquor and Whole Foods Market.

Rebecca Murphy

August 21, 2007

Stonewall Jackson garden produce

If you've ever driven by Stonewall Jackson Elementary School on Mockingbird, you've seen the Stonewall Garden, 20,000 square feet of flowers, herbs, vegetables and much more tended by the students. I didn't know until last week that Tom Spicer helps the garden sell its produce through his FM 1410 on Fitzhugh at Bryan. Over the weekend, he had edamame from the garden. If you're a regular shopper at Jimmy's Food Store, it's easy to check in a few doors down and see what's available from the garden on any given day.

Mini size me!

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I fell in love with Betty Crocker’s Warm Delights my first semester of graduate school. The little cakes make for a perfect after dinner treat or mid-day pick me up. I used them as comfort food, warming one up in the microwave – yes, I said microwave – when the fog rolled in outside in the California Bay Area.

Then I went on a diet and the calorie intake on one cake, at over 350, was too much. I would eat half the cake and lose my appetite. I stopped stocking up because I started paring back.

Betty Crocker is now marketing little versions of the cakes at 150 calories each in three delicious flavors: chocolate raspberry decadence, molten chocolate cake and molten caramel cake.

Just add water, mix in topping and zap for 30-seconds in the microwave. The little treats are quaint and delicious. The serving size is small enough to make you not feel too bad about enjoying one. Look for the mini-sized portions to hit stores by September.

Granny's Texas peanut brittle

peanut brittleFoam provides the defining moment for Mr. Mc's Peanut Brittle (pronounced "Mister Mac's"), made in Garland from a family recipe.

Just as it hits its foaming peak after the addition of baking soda, the molten brittle is spread on large sheets to be cut in rectangles or placed in Texas-shaped molds. The result is a light, airy, homespun brittle that doesn't stick to your teeth. The recipe comes from owner Don McCormick's grandmother.

I found it strolling the aisles of Market Street, but it's also sold at Whole Foods Market, Brookshires and some Walgreens stores; it's $3 for 3.5 ounces. You can e-mail Mr. McCormick for more sources.

Luna's Tortilla Factory closes historic location

Eighty-three-years after it opened, Luna's Tortilla Factory will close the doors to its historic location at McKinney and Caroline streets. Check out details and a video report from WFAA's Debbie Denmon.

August 18, 2007

Luna landing

Luna's Tortillas, a Dallas icon for 83 years at the corner downtown where McKinney Avenue runs into Woodall Rogers, has found a new home. As Steve Brown reported in the business section on Friday, Luna's will be landing at 8524 Harry Hines Blvd., which is close to Regal Row and across from the Brookhaven Country Club. It's also right by Dunston's Steakhouse. Co-owner Fernando Luna told Steve that the landmark neon sign that's been on the building since the 1940s will go to the new location, as will the big metal corn silo. Cretia Drydale, who owns Cretia's on McKinney, bought the historic downtown site.

August 16, 2007

One thousand Starbucks lattes...

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Ah, the things that secretly inspire insane consumer lust in our hearts.

See, at right, the Jura-Capresso Impressa Z6 Super Automatic Coffee Center. That name is a dead giveaway, isn't it? No ordinary coffee maker, this.

It sells at Sur La Table for a mere $3,659. A lot of money? Yes. But then, that's about what some people I know spend for lattes at Starbucks over a three-year period. This Z6 is like having your very own barista living in your kitchen.

"Press one of the eight pre-set beverage buttons," the Sur La Table online catalog says, "and the Z6 perfectly grinds, tamps, pressure-brews and discards grounds in less than a minute, finishing with the perfect crema every time.

"Fresh, cold milk is drawn from the 20-oz. stainless steel container, steamed or frothed, and dispensed through the height-adjustable dual spout — prepare café-quality cappuccino or latte without moving your cup. 18-bar pressure pump quickly turns out latte, espresso, cappuccino, hot chocolate, tea and more. 96-oz. filtered water reservoir allows continuous operation for large gatherings.

"Two-step pre-infusion cycle moistens and conditions the ground coffee. ThermoBlock heating system reaches steaming temperature in seconds; steel conical burr grinder ensures consistently even grounds. Uncluttered, intuitive controls with mirrored LED display that prompts you with simple instructions."

Continue reading "One thousand Starbucks lattes..." »

August 15, 2007

Buying bento

I don't have kids, but I love all this fun gear for bento lunches.

I've heard that some local stores are out of bento gear. But plenty of eBay vendors have it. Stylist Jane Jarrell made a haul from The Bento Store.

Tell us: Are you doing bento for your kids this year? What are their favorite items?

August 14, 2007

Archer Farms takes a bite out of Two Bites

So I'm wandering around the produce department at SuperTarget carrying on an extended cell phone conversation with my daughter when I spy these familiar-looking round plastic containers. Where have I seen these before? Oh, yeah. Whole Foods Market.

Only here they hold Archer Farms Tiny Treats, which look identical to Whole Foods' Two-Bite line of small brownies, macaroons and scones. Coulda come from the same bakery. I dunno who copied whom, but I can guess. Besides the identical items, Archer Farms includes praline blondie brownies, chocolate-dipped macaroons, maple-walnut and toffee caramel scones, mini cinnamon rolls, carrot cakes, pecan tarts and more. They're all $2.99.

I don't really care who the copycat is. I do like the concept of downsizing something in a supersize-me world.

Recipe cards that spread cheer

By Dave CarlinLooking for a card to suit any occasion? Foodies will eat up Tasteful Greetings, a new line of greeting cards by Dallas cooking instructor Tina Wasserman. Dave Carlin at Greg Booth and Associates photographed them.

Each card features a mouth-watering photograph of a dessert (such as the one shown at left) or savory dish. The recipe is printed inside, and with the exception of a few cards, the right side is blank, making it adaptable to many occasions — birthday, congratulations or holiday. The back of each card features a cooking tip or a bit of food history. Pictures and recipes range from Chicken Soup (an ideal get-well card), to Lemon Ricotta Pancakes (who wouldn’t want that recipe?).

Ms. Wasserman, a food columnist for Reform Judaism magazine, made a few of the cards specific to Jewish holidays, such as Rosh Hashanah. The cards sell for $3 each, or $15 for a box of 10 (choose from either the sweet or savory collection).

Ms. Wasserman says she has dreamed of making these cards since she was 8 years old. “My aunt sent me a card in the mail, and on the back was printed a recipe for Chocolate-Orange Cake. I thought 'this is a clever idea.' "

WHERE TO BUY THE CARDS
* Carlyn Gallery; 6137 Luther Land (in Preston Center), 214-368-2828
* Jewish Community Center Gift Shop; 7900 Northaven Road, 214-239-7121
* Judaic Treasures, Temple Emanu-El Gift Shop; 8500 Hillcrest Ave., 214-706-0000
* www.cookingandmore.com

Tina Danze

August 13, 2007

Best local grocery?

This is a request for ideas, and maybe some help.

You see, I'm one of those sad cases, or happy fools, making Dallas home for a second time. In between stints, I was fond of telling old friends and family in Louisville how much my time in Dallas had done to revolutionize the idea of what one should mean by the term, "grocery store."

Though Louisville now boasts Whole Foods, Wild Oats, and Fresh Market, it had none of those options when I traded Kentucky burgoo for Texan barbecue in 2000. Back then, the wide assortment of high-quality grocery options seemed like a revelation. From Eatzi's to Whole Foods to Central Market and other options, I was one happy gourmand in training.

So since I've been back working here since June, what do I miss most about Louisville? Well, the little grocery I was used to in a leafy neighborhood where your bill was sent monthly, delivery was free (should you happen to need it) and the shelves held all the high-end goodies you'd expect mixed in with enough staples to make trips to Kroger unnecessary. It's called Berger's Market, and it features had one of the best and most reasonable butcher shops in town.

Looking to replicate the experience, I've had no luck in Dallas so far. I love Eatzi's -- but like the Dallas City Market on Lovers Lane, its focus is on prepared foods, not groceries. Whole Foods is great, but lacks the personal feel an old grocery can give. I love Central Market's offerings, but hey, I am a single guy and don't want to feel like I am shopping in a warehouse when I need to buy a week's worth of goodies.

The closest I've come is the Italian specialty market, Jimmy's Food Store. And while my family is Italian, and I love the store, it still seems just shy of a full-service grocery.

So maybe you can help. For those of you who eschew the big markets, where do you shop for your groceries?

Do the Rumba!

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Rumba, a Latin-centric brand of traditional meats, is making a big push into the Dallas area with a line of never-frozen, all-beef products available at Carnival Food supermarkets.

Rumba meats also are being served at local restaurants, such as La Parrillada Mexican Kitchen, 7260 Gaston Ave., in East Dallas just south of White Rock Lake.

Currently the hand-packed products include heart, kidneys, liver, marrow bones, oxtails, tripas, sweetbreads, cheek meat, scalded and honeycomb tripe, cross-cut hind shank, flank steak, short ribs and inside skirt steak.

That's what you call Latin soul food. Or, as the Rumba slogan puts it: "Foods of the Soul/Comidas del Alma."

Pecos vs. Tuscany

The Significant Other bought a Tuscan cantaloupe and I got one of the last Pecos cantaloupes this weekend at Central Market. He said his would taste best. I stood behind my Pecos. We cut the melons in half, and today I'm munching on the Tuscan for lunch. If you put me to a blind test, I'm not sure I could tell it from a Pecos, so sweet and full is the flesh. So, at least there's one good alternative out there while the Pecos are scarce.

Mazel tov, Uncle Julio!

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We have never thought of beef fajitas as being a kashrut dish,