
Jean-Baptiste Cristini, bouyant export manager for boutique Champagne producer Delamotte, dropped by Salum last week to shower a few writer types with his bubbly. Not literally, of course. Not at these prices. (Vintage bottles are upwards of $150.) He brought out some rare vintages that are virutally unavailable as well as the entry-level brut non-vintage, which is, to the rest of us, quite an elegant under-$50 champagne.
All the chardonnay and pinot noir grapes come from Grand Cru vineyards - Grand Cru is the top tier - and the house is situated in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, in the heart of the chardonnay country, Cotes des Blancs, from which all the great houses draw their chardonnay.
The Delamotte brut is 50 percent chardonnay, 30 percent pinot noir and 20 percent pinot meunier. "In our non-vintage, we're focusing on a very fresh style," says Cristini, who was born in South Africa, but left at the age of 16 to live in Burgundy. Although it's non-vintage, most of the chardonnay is from 2004.
The result is a crisp, toasty, white peach-pear nose that opens, upon sipping, to a creamy texture, fine bubbles and coconut-vanilla undercurrent tickled by wet stone. An easy toast, with a pedigree of elegance, to be sure.
When asked whether his company is seeing any climate changes that some people might link to global warming, Cristini says only, "We've started to plant in Dover [England]." That's where the terroir of Champagne extends under the English Channel, although heretofore most of the region has been too cold for grape-growing. Nothing like planning ahead for a house that's been around since 1760.
Delamotte brut nonvintage is $48.99 at Pogo's.